Showing posts with label fishing tips. Show all posts
Showing posts with label fishing tips. Show all posts

Monday, December 22, 2008

Fishing Line Knots: Best Thing To Help You Catch The Most Fish

Being able to tie the right fishing line knots is extremely important to being an effective fisherman. Unfortunately, many fishermen are unaware of how to do fishing knots properly. Here are some important tips to help you to find out this information, and help you start benefiting as a result.

First of all, before you learn the right fishing knots to try, remember that this will all depend on whether or not you are a fly fisherman or a regular fishermen, whether you enjoy kayak fishing, bass fishing, salmon fishing, etc. Although there are certainly a lot of different lying knots used in fly fishing, the most common are generally pretty easy to tie.

The basic ones are the arbor knot, Albright knot, nail knot, double surgeon knot, and also the improved clinch knot. Remember, there are certainly many more knots than these that have proven worthwhile, but the ones listed are generally the most effective, and the most commonly utilized by the top fishermen.

The Arbor knot is connected to the fly real to the backing. The Albright knot is generally utilized to connect the backing to the fly line, the nail knot usually gives you the connection between the fly line in the letter, and the improved clinch not make sure that the fly is connected to the tip to it. Of course, these may seem very hard understand at first, but the more you do it, it will become like clockwork. You won't even think about the process of tying your fishing line knocks once you become an avid fisherman.

Of course, you need to make sure that the knots are all on tightly before you go out fishing. In order to do this, pour some water on and then pull gently on them to make sure that they are secure.

Even seasoned professionals don't do this on occasion, and they pay as a result, because the fishing line knots can come loose and portions of erotic can follow the water. Also, another drawback is that the fish might escape from the line and simply get away.

Always remember that the equipment should be discarded immediately once it is beginning to show signs of wear and tear. Remember, no matter how good a fisherman you are, you can only be as good as the equipment you are using. If you are using the equipment how you can never be as effective as you otherwise might.

Obviously, this is simply a quick introduction to the art of tying fishing line knots, and they're still much for you to learn. However, there is certainly some very good news; there are a lot of books that have been written on time fishing nets, and you can certainly learn from the best.

Also, try to go out fishing with other good fisherman's you know, and find out which knots work best for them. This is a great, because you can take advantage of knowledge that they've gained from years of fishing, and therefore rapidly accelerate your learning curve on the art of fishing and fishing knots.

The best way is to take a course in fishing from experienced fishermen, and find out what is effective for them. Whether you want bass fishing tips, salmon, etc, you can find the right course to meet your needs. Hopefully these fishing line knots tips will help you to find the most effective knots for your fishing needs and help you to start learning the art of fishing as quickly as possible.
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Monday, December 15, 2008

Fishing Tackle: Selecting Marine or Saltwater Fish

There are many factors to consider when selecting fish. You need to ensure that you have the experience to look after the fish you select, that the fish you buy are healthy, and that they are compatible with the fish you currently have.

As a starting point, it is very import that you only buy very healthy fish because the best way to keep strong healthy fish is to start with strong healthy fish. Buying a fish because it doesn't look well or happy and you feel sorry for it and want to give it a better home in your display tank is not a very good idea. An unwell fish can introduce diseases into your tank that can infect your other fish, and may even cause them to die. It helps to become familiar with a species of fish before you buy it as this will allow you to be clear on exactly what it should look and act like. Ensure the fish looks alert with clean clear eyes, fins and scales. It is also important that the fish appears eager to feed and can maintain its position in the water column. And finally, as a precaution, only buy from a clean healthy store that you trust.

To break this down I simply refer to all fish as number 1, number 2, or number 3 fish. I refer to number 1 fish as fish that most people can easily keep in regular aquarium conditions. Number 2 fish are fish that from my experience work for some people and not for others and number 3 fish being those which don't work for most people.

Some examples of number 1 fish are Damsels, Clownfish, Dottyback, Triggerfish, Pufferfish, Foxface, Rabbitfish, most Wrasse, most Tangs, Blennies, Cardinal fish, lionfish. Some examples of number 2 fish are , most Tangs, Boxfish, Angels, Gobies, Sweetlip. Some examples of number 3 fish are Moorish idol, Powder Blue Tang, Achilles Tangs, Anthias, Filefish, pipefish, Mandarin fish, Butterfly fish.

Many people select marine fish by wondering into aquarium shores and looking around until they see a fish that catches their attention at that time, they will them ask the staff member closes to them if this fish will go with the few of their fish that they remember to name. If the staff member says yes then that is a green light to buy the fish. This approach takes very little into consideration and will as often as not result in the person purchasing a fish that was not likely to work from the start.

After a considerable amount of time and money, the person will start to understand which fish work in their aquarium, mind you most will have given up marine fish before this time has arisen. Instead of the impulse approach where you slowly learn the hard lesions of fish selection, I strongly recommend starting with a wish list.

A wish list is simply a list of fish that you wish to keep together in your tank. The beauty of a wish list is that you are able to show it to other experience aquarists to get their opinions on how these fish are likely to go together. If you have fish already you can add them to the top of the wish list to reduce the chance of adding other fish that won't work with the fish you have. If you have a wish list you are likely to seek out experts to ask in order to gain the right advise. With the impulse approach you are far more likely to ask the nearest sales person and hope that they know. With the wish list you are able to use the opinions of a range of experts to save you a lot of time and money learning hard lesson on paper instead of with real fish. This is a very responsible and economical approach.

When selecting fish for your aquarium there are several things to consider before purchasing it e.g. diet, aggression, territoriality and weather it will nip at your corals.

A simple thing that you need to remember is that fish don't want to die. They will only die if you don't provide them with at least their basic minimum requirements. By researching a fishes basic minimum requirements first and asking a few people for their experiences keeping that fish you can massively increase the amount of success that you have when keeping marine fish.

The use of the wish list is going to help you make sure you are mixing fish that will commonly work together. Regardless of where you are at it is worth asking the right person the right questions to ensure that the fish you add are likely to work together. Regardless of how qualified the advice you get, fish are fish and in the end they do what they want how they want. Just because 10 experts tell you something is likely to happen, it doesn't mean that that will happen. Understand that the fish you buy are your responsibility and your responsibility alone. So if the fish you buy don't seem to be mixing well, it is up to you to separate them, before too many fish affected by the troubles.

It is important consider aggression when selecting fish. Monitor the aggression of the fish you keep and only add fish that will be able to compete with the fish that you have and not over compete. If you add a fish that is too aggressive for the fish you have it is likely to act boisterously and eat all the fish food and attack the other fish in the tank, even killing them. When you see this type of activity remove the trouble maker before it is able to cause you any more problems. The key is just as much in the monitoring and the action you take once a problem is identified as it is in initial selection.

Some fish are more so territorial then plan aggressive, an aggressive fish will attack fish for seemingly no reason. A territorial fish will drive fish out of their territory but leave them when the fish is out of its territory. It is worth considering territorial behaviour when selecting fish. Some fish like the Dottyback is territorial and can often be housed safely with many fish because its territory is small, leaving room for the other fish in the tank, while some other fish like coral trout can get so large that its territory can be the whole tank.

There is a big difference between territorial, aggressive and predatory. Territorial fish drive fish out of their territory, aggressive fish attack other fish for what can seem like to reason but to show dominance and predatorily fish eat other fish. Predatorily fish don't have to be aggressive or territorial. Predatorily fish are primarily concerned with their belly, what can fit in their mouth is what they will eat. A perfect example of a predatory fish if the lionfish. This fish is not aggressive or territorial but it will eat any fish that will fit in its huge mouth, which is about the same size as it body. When selecting fish it is worth assuming that all fish are predatory.

When creating you wish list also include when you intend to adding the fish, because you also want to gather comments on this. Most groups of fish are best added at the some time to reduce territorially e.g. any tangs should be added together, any clown should be added together, this is also true for many fish even Wrasse and angels.

Many fish take about 3 day to settle into a new tank, in this time it is common for them not to feed and they may act differently. It is important to monitor new fish extra carefully for the first week for stress, behaviour, aggression and feeding habits. Always watch for changes in behaviour, action must be take when it is required.

Some fish live in large schools in the wild and do tend to fret with kept in aquariums singly or in small groups. These fish are used to having a lot of their own kind around them as an instinctual form of security, when they are placed in aquariums lightly stocked with fish they stress thinking there is danger because the rest of their school is absent. This can be the case when all the other fish appear fine but an individual seems to be jumpy and breathing quickly, some examples of these fish are Blue Tangs, green chromis and anthias.

If you are going to introduce fish to a tank with Coral and invertebrates it is important to identify which are likely to be a threat to them. This could be identified as A, B C fish. Some fish e.g. C fish will eat coral like Butterfly fish and Angelfish.
While others e.g. B fish will nip at it sometimes like Triggerfish, Pufferfish, Foxface, Rabbitfish most Wrasse, most Tangs Moorish idol. Others are mostly safe with coral e.g. A fish like Damsels, Clownfish, Dottyback, Blennies, Cardinal fish, lionfish, Anthias. Filefish, pipefish and Gobies.

Your wish list is a way of reduce the risk of introducing a coral eater to a coral tank. If you get a fish that only nips a particular type of coral you can consider avoiding that piece in the future. Hungry fish are more likely to graze on coral , even if your fish is not eating the coral it may stress it by nipping it regularly coursing it by often closed, depriving it of light.

Most fish need similar amounts of nutrients but the way they process the food means that not all foods are appropriate for all fish. You must consider what you will be feeding that tank when you buy fish for the tank. Herbivores have long digestive systems and a designed for consuming green food stuffs while predators have a short digestive system for eating fish meat. Some high quality pellet and flake foods can be fed to all fish but many natural food like fresh fish and seaweed are not suitable for some fish e.g. Meat is not good for herbivores and seaweed is not good for predators, this is because of the way that the fish process that food.

It is very important not to introduce new fish unless that your aquarium is running perfectly for the last month. You will increase the chances of problems like Whitespot if the fish are introduced more regularly than once a month, so add some fish then wait a month then add some more then wait a month. It will also help to ensure that you are running a lower salt level e.g. 1.020 when you introduce new fish, this will help lower osmotic stress on the fish and also help reduce the chance of problems like Whitespot.
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Wednesday, December 10, 2008

The Beginners Sea Fishing Tackle Tips

So you're going to give sea angling ago or you are an old timer with years of experience, sea fishing is all about challenging yourself and pushing the envelope and not to forget enjoyment, Sea fishing is no means easy however there are a few ways to improve your fishing.

Other sea anglers around you! You will probably pick up new tips and advice from sea anglers alike, this information is invaluable to both beginners and experienced anglers remember sea fishing knowledge reverts to a better chance of that once of a life time monster fish.

Quality of my sea fishing tackle! Making sure you have the right tools for the job is paramount; you wouldn't want that big fish to get away because of a cheap hook or a poorly made swivel. That's why here a Monster Fishing we insure that you get the very best quality for your money by stocking high end professional brands such as Mustad, Hiro, Breakaway, Gemini, Shakespeare, Penn and more.

Selecting the right sea fishing tackle gear! Everyone has a personal preference when it comes to sea rods through to sea rigs; the important thing is find something that suits you not everyone else. Set yourself a target and try and stick to it, as you gain experience you can then progress onto more advanced tactics.

Sea Rigs made easy. Just because you cant tie a rig doesn't mean you're a bad sea angler! There are lots of Ready made Rigs available such as Gemini, Mustad and Sakuma. See our range of sea rigs for a good selection.

There are so many sea tackle products to choose from! That's what we are here for! Feel free to email us any sea fishing tackle questions or product enquires to info@monsterfishing.co.uk

Reliable Service & Tackle Choice, Now you may be thinking what this has to do with sea fishing, well getting the right product is critical, to be able to have a large choice in sea fishing tackle and gear all under one roof at a great price is a advantage which some local tackle shops cannot provide.Check out our shop or other large online retail shops.

Lure Fishing from the shore. Latex and other imitation sea fishing lures attract a large variety of species such as Bass, Pollock, and Mackerel all lures have different methods on how they should be fished, some are a copy of a real bait fish and some just spoons or rubber strips. We recommend the following lures, Bass Bandit, Sidewinder, Skaliwags Mackerel Stripe and the famous Dexter Wedge. They can all be found in our extensive lures section. However there is something for everyone and a lot boils down to the venue and success rate. Catching a Big Bass off a lure on the shoreline is very rewarding which is why so many sea anglers become totally addicted.

Safety whilst fishing. Remember your sea fishing tackle can be replaced but your life cannot, beware of tides and dangerous rock marks! Always plan, best advice is to purchase a Floatation suit from a reputable source. We stock a selection of high quality floatation suits in our clothing section.See our link!

Source: Articlesbase.com

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Wednesday, February 13, 2008

Sailfish Fishing


A great place to go after sailfish is not too hard if you pay attention to many of the great anglers. Of course, finding them for yourself requires a keen eye for the habitat in which the sailfish strive. One such place is located of the Florida coastline near Fort Pierce, where in 65 feet of water, you can find the breeding grounds for a great number of predators as well as bait fish along the series of reefs.

By November however, the waters become too chilly for the sailfish since the temp can drop below 70 degrees with ease. But do not fear; just go out a little further to where the water get between 150 and 120 feet deep and there is another great set of reefs which is known to have one of the largest concentrations of sailfish in the area.

It is in this area, which is located roughly 8 miles off from Fort Pierce in which you will find the locale that is known as the 8 mile. Here, the warm Gulf Streams push a great number of not only sails and other predators, but bait fish as well right up into the reefline. Since the sailfish is more of a pack hunter, looking for the bait balls along this reefline, will put you in perfect location to catch yourself some sailfish.

From that point, you will need a trained eye to catch the surface activity of the sailfish tailing the swells just on the shore-side of the Gulf Stream. If you can find these tailers, you are in a good position to hook yourself a sailfish. Now there are two major, as well as proven methods to catching these sailfish. The first method is by tossing some pitch bait in front of the fish, while the second is to use a drag bait situated in front of the sailfish's bill.

Many local family fishermen use a ballyhoo rigging in order to catch the sailfish, but with a little time and practice you can pick up on the local techniques. The whole goal of course is to make your own artificial bait pod to attract the sailfish right to your rigging.

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Sunday, February 10, 2008

Summer Fishing and Vacation Tips

When summer time comes and salmon are starting to run, many people who like fishing visit Alaska. Tourists tend to know when the salmon run starts. This may not be on purpose but they do know the best place to catch salmon is in Alaska.

Alaska’s waters make their tourists get the Alaska fishing guide and provide the tourists the best spots in Alaska for fishing. First, you have to know what kind of fish you want to catch. You can choose from different varieties of fishes like silver salmon, arctic char, steelhead, Alaska king salmon, rainbow trout, or any other fish.

The Arctic, Southwest, South central, Southeast and the interior are the five known geographical places in Alaska. These are the sites where you can maximize your fishing expedition. You have to hire a fishing guide since you do not know the area. They may give the best spots for you and accompany you to your fishing.

There Are Some Things You May Want To Ask From Your Guide.

  1. You have to know how long they have been doing their work in Alaska. It is good if they have been staying there for a long time already. The reason is that they have much knowledge about the different yearly cycles of Alaska.
  2. Be aware of the time you will spend during the trip. Also, make note of the time that you will need during the actual fishing. The amount that you will pay your guide might only be consumed on the time of the boat ride rather than the fishing itself.
  3. Ask how much a particular guide would cost, because they have different rates depending on their skills, experiences and length of stay in their job. A guide that would cost cheaper than the average rate of the other guides might not have enough experience and skills.
  4. It is recommended that you have your references. This will help you narrow down your choices in selecting a fishing guide. Most people who have been there are willing to share about how satisfied they were during the fishing vacation. They can also give you some advice on what you need to do during the adventure.
  5. Remember, this is a chance for you to ask about particular issues that concern you. Do not hesitate to gather information from your guide. By this time, you should be able to have your final choice for your Alaska fishing guide that will be perfect for your plans and make the most out of your trip in Alaska.
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Tuesday, November 6, 2007

Cold Weather Trout Fishing Tips


A fishing article.As the year comes screeching to a halt, it means one thing to most of us who enjoy fishing for trout. It means that the weather is colder and the trout are much more sluggish and hard to catch than they are in warmer weather. Does this mean that we can't catch trout when the weather gets cold? No, not at all, it simply means that we need to keep certain things in mind when fishing in these types of conditions.

Fish, and this obviously includes trout, are cold blooded and as the water temperature drops, the fishes metabolism slows down. When a fishes metabolism slows down, they don't eat as much. And we as anglers know what it means when fish don't eat as much, right? Yep, they are much less apt to bite whatever we as anglers are offering.

Keeping in mind that trout aren't going to be as willing to eat as they will when water temperatures are higher, we as anglers need to vary our approach a little bit. This means using baits/lures that are smaller than we normally might. For example when the weather is cold, using a whole night crawler isn't going to be as productive as it might be in July. When the weather (and subsequently the water temperature) gets cold, try using small baits like meal worms and maggots. Or maybe just a piece of night crawler?

The same principle holds true for baits. Where a ¼ ounce Rooster Tail might be employed in July, in January downsize to an 1/8 ounce version of the same lure. The speed of your retrieve should be slowed down when the trout are sluggish due to cold water as well. The bottom line is this: When water temperatures plummet, trout want to expend as little energy as they can getting food. Keep this in mind when fishing for trout in cold weather.

When the trout are sluggish, it's that much more important to make sure you're fishing at the most opportune times. This is where paying attention to the weather and/or moon come into play. These two natural occurrences have a remarkable affect on the behavior of fish, and understanding how and why is important. Maximize your fishing time by learning how the weather and moon affect the behavior of the fish you're trying to catch.

Finally, you have to keep your hands warm while you're fishing, or you're in trouble. The methods I use to catch trout require me to have the unfettered use of my fingers, which means that I need fingerless gloves to help keep my hands warm. Keeping your hands warm while trout fishing is cold weather is of the utmost importance. Nothing can ruin a perfectly good fishing excursion like having your hands feel like they might fall off at any moment, I promise you that.

Follow these simple tips for trout fishing is cold weather and you'll be much more comfortable and successful. Remember, just because the weather temperatures change it doesn't mean that you have to stop fishing for trout.
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Monday, November 5, 2007

Winter Walleye Ice Fishing

The ice is about to really set on some major lakes and walleye veterans will be hitting their spots like rabid raccoons. So how do these guys find their prime winter spots. Well, most likely there was some trial and error involved, and some stories from this guy and that, and a little luck here at this spot, or that one.You get the idea, hot spots comes from little pieces of information that have been gathered over years of experience to give you some old standby spots.

However, with ice fishing there are signs of angler presence that don't exist in open water months. And one of the biggest signs is holes. Yes, it may be obvious, but some people don't do enough ice fishing hole analysis when ice fishing. On bigger lakes, hole analysis may be very hard to do, because of the enormous amount of water that one must cover. On small lakes though you can see ice fishing hole patterns with a bit of walking or snowmobiling. I don't ever recommend encroaching on people's holes while they are there , and using old holes that people have drilled may be a bit of a no no for some anglers. (If you don't have an auger though , and are on larger lakes there is nothing wrong with using some older holes that are abandoned to get to some water with just a small axe, but don't ever intrude on ice fishing holes blatantly).

What I am recommending is more of analyzing where these fisherman are locating these holes. Above the surface of the water there is little to differentiate one piece of ice from another. But the holes tell a good story about the fishing in the area.

One of the characteristics of the holes to analyze is their distance from the shore. Often times anglers will have found with electronics, or from experience, the point at which the bottom drops off into deeper water where walleye will hold.

This drop off may last for miles or only a few hundred feet. But, the point is, that you now have more information than you did by just blindly drilling holes all over the frozen tundra. When you search around these holes also look for signs of fish being caught. Like fish scales and blood from fish that are thrown on the ice to be saved to eat. This is obviously prime information.

Now if you want to come back to theses spots throughout the winter and it snows a good deal in your neck of winter paradise you need to mark these spots somehow. And you want to mark them so its not that obvious.If you have a gps unit this isn't that hard to do, but if you don't, and you are close to the shore, prop up some sticks in an odd way that you will be able to notice the next time you walk past them. If the holes are close by the shore count off your steps and write down how many steps it took you to get there.

It may sound a bit outdated , but it has a certain walleye hunting barbarian aspect to it , as opposed to saying , oh yeah, my hole is at N 75 blah blah blah, W 64 blah blah blah, you can say my hole is 75 paces off that giant oak out there.

If you don't have electronics to key in on underwater structure than use ice fishing hole analysis this winter to gather information on that will give you some success. Or you could just continue to walk 50 yards from the parking lot and use your auger more than you fish. Whatever floats your boat, both are fun, haha.

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Sunday, November 4, 2007

An Alluring Sport :Exuma Bonefishing!

Can you conquer the bones? Sure, the Bahamas can offer sunshine, seclusion, solace, and a sexy tan, but did you know it can also offer the chance to engage in some of the best fishing in the world? Exuma bonefishing is truly a challenging and gripping sport and the regional coastlines are particularly exceptional for this spirited pastime. Bonefish are some of the most elusive fish in the sea and can be a slippery prey to hook; however with a knowledgeable guide and a few tricks and know-how, hooking yourself a "bone" can be a truly satisfying and pleasurable experience.

The Bonefish
Bonefish are native to the Caribbean, but are particularly plentiful just off the coast of the Exuma Islands. The immaculate sandy flats of the Exumas provide the ideal location for this sport, as bonefish keep to shallow muddy and sandy flats when digging for food. Parts of the south-east side of the island are known to have some particularly good spots. Bonefish are usually caught for the sport and spirit of the chase; they are not particularly known to be so great-tasting. In fact, bonefish are said to have the most fight per pound of any other fish!

Fly fishers flock to the islands of the Bahamas every year to experience the challenge and adventure of Exuma bonefishing. Bonefish are silvery in color and are very fast-moving; it is not uncommon to see three or four enthusiastic fishermen splashing merrily through the shallow waters, rods in hand, to chase down a school, which can reach up to approximately 300 fish. A bonefish can streak up to 25 miles per hour in order to evade sharks, barracudas, and of course, energetic fishermen! An average bonefish weighs between 4 and 6 pounds, but can reach up to a whopping 19 pounds. Although bonefishing is popular in any season, the months of May to July are said to be particularly exceptional for this spirited sport.

Exuma bonefishing
Bonefishing is not your typical fishing expedition by any means. Exuma has many resources and facilities where visitors, whether amateur or pro, can visit to learn the techniques of bonefishing and seek aid from experienced and enthusiastic guides. Most guides on the island have grown up in the area and are well-versed in the movements of this slippery, silvery fish. It is important to rig up your rod straight away while your guide prepares the boat; you definitely do not want to be caught unprepared as a school of bonefish swiftly heads your way. If the tides are high, you can expect to be fishing in creeks and mangrove shorelines, as Exuma bonefishing is tide-dependent. Depending on the weather and seasonal changes, the average number of bonefish schools sighted per day in Exuma is 40 to 400, while the average number of fish caught per day is between 3 and 45.

Essentials for Eager Bonefishers
Fly rods
Reels with plenty of backing (150-200 yards)
Spare flylines
Leader material/tippets
Flies (Gotchas, Christmas Island Specials, Charlies)
Pliers/clippers/hook sharpener
Wading shoes
Wading pack
Fly tying kit
Sunglasses, hat & sunscreen
Water bottle
Light rain gear

Whether you have the craving for an exhilarating fishing experience or just want to try something new and different, Exuma bonefishing is the ideal choice. It is definitely not a passive activity and can be enjoyable for the whole family. Hooking your first bonefish is a unique and fulfilling experience that may have you adopting the sport full-time. As any local bonefisherman will tell you, there is nothing as exciting as casting your line out into that azure sea and waiting in anticipation for that impending thrill of the chase. The avid bonefisher is always scanning, anticipating, and moving in order to hook their next big one.

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Thursday, November 1, 2007

Caring for Your Fly Reels

Reels are not 100% corrosion proof. We want our reels to be lightweight and yet we want them to be strong and durable. We want them to look good and resistant to saltwater. Of course the drag must be smooth and have the stopping power of a train.

Above all we want them affordable. Reel manufacturers have to make a compromise with the design of the reels. The reels design compromises between what is needed and what can be done and accomplish it all at a reasonable price. Aluminum is lightweight, but corrodes easy. Titanium is better but unaffordable. So, most are made with aluminum that must be covered with a protective coating. Paint isn’t much good in saltwater.

A powdered coating is better or anodizing the aluminum. There are many other parts such as screws, nuts, washers, springs, etc. that have to be made from another metal whether it is stainless steel, brass, bronze, etc. Because of the combination of metals corrosion can be caused by electrolysis.

There are some simple tips you can follow that will help eliminate the corrosion process.Avoid dipping the reel in water as much as possible, especially saltwater.

Don’t hit the reel against rocks, the boat deck, hard floors, or any other hard surfaces. Bare metal can be exposed with the scratches and dents made in the metal and will corrode.

When fishing on a boat, always place the rod butt down in such a way as to prevent sliding. Using a damp cloth under the butt of the rod is one of the ways you can prevent the rod from sliding.

DO NOT drop the reel in the sand. Sand is a hard surface and can cause scratches to the inner housing. It will also damage the discs and the bearings.

When the boat is moving, put the reel in a place so it is not exposed to the water spray. The force of the spray can get water into the reel where it will affect the bearings.

The housing of the ball bearings is made of stainless steel, but the ball bearings themselves are not. When the bearings corrode they will heat up and seize right in the middle of a fight with the catch of your dreams.

Immediately after fishing rinse the reel under a stream of low-pressure tap water. Remove the spool, shake off the excess water and set aside to dry before putting it back on the reel. If you have been fishing in saltwater upon returning home, give the reel a thorough cleaning with hot soapy water to remove the salt crystals, rinse and dry with a soft cloth. The reel is then ready to be put away for any length of time.

Reels should never be soaked for long periods of time. The fresh water will not remove the salt crystals and the water will start corroding the ball bearings. The cork drag plates can be distorted when soaked in water making a jerky drag.

Follow the manufacturer’s instructions when applying new grease and lubricate. A light coating of oil or car polish is required for the housing. If you fish year round in saltwater, this needs to be done at least 4 times per year.

Saltwater reel should be stored empty. The backing can be left on if it has been thoroughly cleaned to remove all of the salt crystals.

Always disengage the drag when storing the reel.

A handcrafted fine leather reel pouch with sheepskin lining should not be used with saltwater reels. They will trap salty moisture and can not be cleaned. As with the rod, a reel should never be put into a pouch wet especially after saltwater fishing. If it happens, the pouch must be cleaned and all the remnants of salt removed.

Store the reel on a shelf in a cabinet not in the pouch.
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Thursday, October 18, 2007

Terrific Fishing Tips

by Tom Cwynar


Skunked is when you catch nothing-not a bluegill, not a bass, not a catfish, not a crappie. You fish all day and come home empty-handed. You don't even have a good story to tell.

"They weren't biting," you mutter to your family.

It happens to everyone now and then. We all can have bad luck. It's part of fishing. If you get skunked a lot, though, maybe bad luck isn't the problem.

Fishing is one of those great sports in which some little tip or trick might change your luck from bad to good. In our last Outside In issue, we asked readers for some of the fishing tips that helped them.

Lindsay Arens, who lives in Florissant, said she discovered a great trick when her school, South West Middle School, went to Camp Lakewood YMCA.

"When our cabin went fishing," she wrote, "we had our choice of worms on our hook or corn." Lindsay said she chose both.

"I took the worm and put it on my hook, and then put corn on to disguise the hook."

At first she didn't catch anything, she said, but when she was helping a friend unhook a small bluegill from her line, Lindsay's bobber went down.

"I reeled in my line and, turns out, I caught an 11-pound catfish!," she said. "Later, I went fishing with a group from the boy's cabin and was the only person to catch a fish. It was
a 6-pound catfish."

"Basically, If you want to catch a good-size fish," she added, "combine a worm and corn on a hook."

Lindsay's tip works for other baits, too. If everyone else is using one bait or lure and not catching much, then try something different. Hook on a crayfish or minnow or use an artificial lure. You can also change the depth below your bobber or cast to a different spot.

The trouble Lindsay and her friend had unhooking that bluegill brings to mind another good tip. A glove or a hand towel will help you hold those slippery fish. It'll also help protect you from their sharp fins. Put some long-nosed pliers into your tackle bag or box, too. They're great for removing fish hooks without hurting you or
the fish.

Anthony Klenke, who is 11 years old and lives in Union, said his fishing tip works great for all kids and adults.

"Use locusts for smallmouth bass in the summertime," he says. "That's how I caught my big fish."

Locusts make great bait for trout and catfish, too. When Missouri had its big locust hatch in 1998, the fish were slurping them up like crazy. And grasshoppers, which are related to locusts, are what Nick Adams uses for bait in Ernest Hemingway's famous story, "Big Two-Hearted River."

Anthony didn't say how big his fish was, but he warned us that locusts are sometimes hard to corral. Here's something to think about: If a hard-to-catch bait makes it easy to catch fish, would an easy-to-catch bait make it hard to catch fish?

Hannah Gragg, who is 12 and lives in Belton, says, "If you are fishing on a sunny day and you happen to see big patches of moss, cast your fishing line near the edge of the moss."

She explains that bright sun blinds fish that are looking up to get a lure or worm, but the moss provides shade and the fish can see the bait.

Shade on sunny days almost always attracts fish. The fish seem to feel safer there. A big tree that leans into the water from shore will almost always have fish near it or under it.

It's a pretty good tip to cast your bait near things whenever you can. Fish like to hang near logs, rocks and docks. It doesn't matter whether these things are under the water or half-in and half-out of the water. Another great place to cast is next to
a weedbed.

Some kids always cast straight out from the shore or dock, but lots of fish like the shorelines.

One of the best spots is along the dropoff where shallow water turns into deep water. You can fish this better by casting a little bit out into the lake but off to the side. Then if you bring your bait back slowly, it'll spend more time in this "fishy" zone.

The best fishing pole is not the biggest one. A good rig for most fishing is a 5 1/2 foot, light-action rod with a push-button spinning reel filled with 6-pound test line. Don't try to catch fish using line that looks more like rope. Fish may be dim, but they aren't totally dumb.

Besides, all reels have an adjustment, called a drag, that releases line when the fish pulls hard. With the drag set correctly, you can catch a 20-pounder on 6-pound test line.

If you do, we'll be asking you for fishing tips.
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Wednesday, October 3, 2007

Fishing Tips: Leaders and Tippets

A “leader” is a length of tapered monofilament; the thick end is tied to the end of the fly line. The “tippet” is a length of level monofilament, one end is tied to the thin end of the leader and the other end is tied to the fly.

276902_fly_fishing.jpg The leaders are about nine feet long and transfer the power of the cast gently toward the fly. A numbering system was designed to match the diameter of the end of the rod because this is the part that is important. When looking for a leader the number system is backwards. The smaller the diameter the larger the number. It makes it easy that the tippets are number the same way. A 6X leader will fit with a 6X tippet. An end of the tippet is tied to the smaller end of the leader.

Most of the knots that develop close to the end of your line near the fly are called “wind knot “ and since you get these when casting in the two feet ahead of the fly. The knots weaken things. If the knots develop in the leader, it can get expensive cutting off the knots, and changing flies. By tying on about 2 feet of tippet material, you can save your leader. The tippet material is not expensive and when it gets too short, you can just ties on a new length.
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Tuesday, October 2, 2007

Caring for Your Fly Lines and Backing

No matter which kind of fly line you choose to use, you will need to take care of your fly line to ensure that it will last you a good long time. Fly line is not indestructible, and it will need a little care and a few precautions to ensure the life of your fly line. Fly lines get damaged in several ways. Most of the time a fly line will get damaged through mechanical wear and tear. Ripping through the ring guides, getting stepped on, running the line across coral, sand and mud.Even the UV rays from the sun along with excessive heat can be damaging. We can’t forget that exposing the fly line to chemical substances, such as suntan lotion, gasoline or insect repellant will damage the fly line. These chemicals can also damage the finish on you fly rod, so you will want to take extra precautions when using these products around your fly fishing equipment.

Fly line manufactures create the fly line so there is a lubricant inside the fly line coating. The porous coating allows the lubricant to slowly release which will keep the line sticky and leave it with the ability to float. Sand, mud and dirt will clog the pores blocking the lubricant so it can’t do its job. It is important to keep your floating line clean.

When the outer coating starts developing small cracks, it will be your first visible sign that a fly line is reaching the end of its life. Once you see the cracks, water will get into the line and the deterioration will progress rather quickly.

Leaving the fly line wound on a small spool, usually the reel, for long periods of time will create line memory. When the line will stay coiled when removed from the spool. If your line is coiled like the tail on a piglet, casting ability is hampered in turn it will affect the fly delivery.

With out proper care a fly line will only last for one season. With the proper care fly line will last for several seasons. It only requires a small amount of effort to take care of the fly line.

When fishing even in clean water there are microscopic particles of dirt that will stick to the floating line adding weight that will prevent the natural tendencies of the line to float. Some manufacturers include cleaner pads in the package with the line. They recommend that the working part of the line be wiped with the cleaner pad every time before it is to be used. The pads clean the surface of that line and leave behind a thin layer of lubricant to assist the line in moving through the rod guides. Other manufactures suggest washing the line using a mild soap and water and drying with a soft dry cloth afterwards. The floating line will ensure the expected performance of the line no matter how it is cleaned.

Backing hardly needs any maintenance when being used for freshwater fishing, but saltwater can effect the backing along with the UV rays and mildew. Backing should be inspected often for damaged or weak spots. When drying up, salt crystals can encrust the backing together.

Here are some other tips for line care.

Rinse the fly line in tap water before the salt and dirt dry. It should be stored on a large arbour, vented spool until the next fishing trip.

ly line and backing should be soaked in hot soapy water for several hours several times a year, more if you are saltwater fishing. This will loosen the dirt and salt.

he soap used to clean the fly line should be baby shampoo or natural hand soap.

Read the manufacturer’s instructions when apply a silicone based dressing to the fly line.

Sometimes they can do more harm than good.

By stretching the line before you take it out fishing, casting the line will be much easier.

Pick up the line rather than dragging it over rocks, sand, docks and deck which will cause damage to the coating.

Try not to step on your fly line.

When you need to practice casting, practice on a lawn, not dirt or asphalt.

When your fly line is not in use, keep it covered not exposed to the sun.

If you are using a double taper fly line, it is best stored on a large arbor, vented spool during you fishing down time. Do not leave on your fly reel.

When twist and kinks develop in your fly line, they can be removed by removing the leader and fly. Allow the line to troll behind the boat for a few minutes. If you are on a river, let it hang in the water. Then take a soft cloth and remove the twists by pulling the fly line between your fingers always from the rear to the front taper. This procedure may have to be repeated to remove all the twists and kinks.

Never store fly line wet. The damp fly line and backing place in an enclosed space can cause the line to become stained and mildewed. This will attack the outer coating resulting in poor casting and floating ability. Fly line is best stored on a large arbor, vented spool.

Catching a large fish is only possible with fishing gear that is in perfect working order. Use these tips to keep your fishing gear in the best condition possible, so that you will not let the BIG ONE get away.
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Sunday, September 9, 2007

Clark’s Fork of the Yellowstone River

by Don Fine

Clark’s Fork of the Yellowstone River named after William Clark of the Lewis and Clark fame has Wyoming’s only designated Wild and Scenic River. It originates high in the Beartooth Mountains on the northwest borders of Wyoming and southwest Montana and then flows southeasterly into Wyoming for approximately 40 miles before re-entering Montana where it flows north to join the Yellowstone River near Laurel, MT.

The Clark’s Fork headwaters are near Cooke City, MT and the river is less than 50 feet in width. The river is fast flowing with eager brookies along with Yellowstone cutthroats and rainbows. The Middle Section of the river begins below Hunter Peak Campground. Here the river is wider with long runs, some pocket water and riffles. Just below the Campground, the river begins to plummet through a thousand foot drop referred to as the canyon section.

Along the canyon section additional excellent trout streams, like Crandall Creek and Dead Indian Creek add their flow to the Clark’s Fork. Wading in this section can be treacherous. The canyon section’s recommended fishing period starts by August 1, but later is safer. Near Dead Indian Creek one finds the Sunlight Basin near the site where the Nez Pierce Indians fled south through the canyons to escape pursuit by the U.S. Calvary.

In the Lower Section of the Clark’s Fork, the river slows and widens considerably. Here are found long runs, deep pools and fair numbers of Yellowstone cutthroat, along with some Rocky Mountain whitefish.

The ride along the Clark’s Fork is picturesque throughout and one of our favorite roads to travel on our way to Yellowstone Park. Rock formations in the area where the Chief Joseph highway joins route 120 north of Cody features red sandstone formations that originated hundreds of thousands of years ago.

Access to the Clark’s Fork can also be from the Beartooth Highway junction with the Chief Joseph Highway. Originating south out of Red Lodge, Montana, the Beartooth Highway is a well-known route to the northeast entrance to Yellowstone National Park. The highway’s reputation is one of America’s most scenic highways climbing to 11,000 feet before descending to the Chief Joseph Highway.

We fish the Upper Section each time we travel to Yellowstone Park. On several occasions when we fished the upper section near Hunter Peak Campground, we caught all three of the trout species listed here. In general, the upper water holds trout in the 6-12 inch range, albeit I understand fish in the Canyon area range from 12-20 inches. Flies commonly used in the Clark’s Fork during the late summer months include caddis, golden stoneflies, gray drakes, PED, PMD, and terrestrials. For Ruby and me on the warm afternoon of August 12, 2004, the fish liked stimulators, with caddis pupae droppers, as we caught numerous colorful brookies, rainbow and cutthroat. On a previous trip, a good hatch of blue wing olives (BWO) was present. Beetle and hopper patterns work in late summer too.

There is relatively little fishing pressure on the Clark’s Fork as compared to other streams in Yellowstone Park. Add the Clark’s Fork to your list of western rivers to fish when you next travel to the Park. Though you probably will not catch a trophy, you will love the clear, cool water, and the peaceful surroundings that the Clark’s Fork has to offer.

Just a tip, remember when fishing the Clark’s Fork, the BWO rules.

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Monday, September 3, 2007

Little Tips As You Go Fishing

MOTOR MAINTENANCE: Use Stabil & enzyme gas treatment to keep fuel lines, filters, and carburetor free of gunk. Annually—change plugs; lube the lower unit, change or clean filters. Remove prop, check for fishing line, grease shaft, if in doubt have prop checked for true, check steering cable & grease, check control cables, touch up paint. Other - replace impeller at least once every other year-more often if lower unit has encountered sand or mud input.

FISHING TIPS: Make 10 casts in a fan. If no bite change the lure, color or speed of retrieval. Continue this sequence. When you find success and land one then put over a marker buoy and continue with that presentation---you might be in a school with the right stuff!
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Tips on What Not to Forget on Your Next Camping/Fishing

I overheard a conversation at a local convenience store the other day that piqued my interest. Two forty-something females were conversing about their camping trip over the Fourth of July weekend. They both agreed the fishing was good, the mosquitoes were bad, and the children were well behaved. Still, the trip was also noteworthy for a few unpleasant surprises, namely forgotten camping gear and defective equipment.

“I only go camping once a summer, and after I’m home I pack all my stuff into plastic storage bins and keep it in my garage until the following year, ” said one of the ladies. “I don’t know what happened. I should have packed much smarter.”

Such stories aren’t uncommon; they happen to all of us at least once in our lives -- trust me on that. Before I go on a family camping trip, I grab a notebook and write out a packing list, complete with boxes for check marks. It sounds a little corny, but I’ve found it works so well that I’ve turned it into something of a ritual.

As I start to assemble my gear, first making sure everything works properly, I pack the item and check the appropriate box in my notebook. That way I know I won’t forget anything at home.

Tent -- check.
Stakes -- check.
Sleeping bag -- check.
Lantern -- check.
Flashlight -- check.
And so on.

When you are going on a camping trip far away from home, forgotten items can mean more than an inconvenience; forgotten items can lead to anightmare. Here are a few camping and fishing items that I absolutely won’t leave home without:

* Fillet knives: If you have designs on eating a fresh fish dinner, a quality set of fillet knives is mandatory. A butter knife simply won’t cut it. For my money, Gerber makes the best fillet knives on the market today. Inexpensive and always dependable, they come in multiple sizes and have special “Gator Grip” handles that make filleting fish in wet weather a snap. All of Gerber’s fillet knives come with a hard-molded sheath and a ceramic sharpener slot at the tip. That’s definitely a plus when you’re cleaning a mess of bluegills. Gerber also has other products that you’ll find helpful in any camping setting, everything from axes, saws and multi-pliers to shears, knife sharpeners and more. For more information, check
www.gerber.com.

* Ziploc bags: These quality plastic bags are lifesavers -- and in more ways than one. If I catch enough fish on a camping trip take home, I immediately put the fillets in Ziploc freezer bags and put them on ice. I also store other food I want to keep dry in them. When I’m wilderness camping, I always assume I going to run into inclement weather, so I pack my extra socks, underwear, T-shirts and other garments in Ziploc Big Bags. Trust me, they’ll stay nice and dry.

* Camera: Family camping trips are the stuff of memories, so why not preserve them by snapping off a few rolls of film? I never leave home without my trusty Nikon 35mm camera. One never knows when you’re going to catch a monster pike or walleye. For information, check www.nikon.com.

* Insect repellent: Nothing can spoil a camping trip faster than getting eaten alive by mosquitoes, black flies, gnats or sandflies. That’s why I store cans of OFF! Deep Woods everywhere -- in my Chevy truck, in my Plano tackle box, in my duffel bag. OFF! Deep Woods has 25 percent DEET, which is good for long days in the outdoors. Generally speaking, the higher the percentage of DEET, the longer the repellent works. Make sure to read the instructions before applying. Another option is to use OFF! Skintastic insect repellent, which has been specially formulated to protect against both insects and the sun.

* Snacks: Have you ever been fishing with your son or daughter and had them start ranting and raving about being hungry? Nothing can satisfy a kids’ growling stomach quite like Jack Link’s Beef Jerky, which is low in fat (97 fat free) and high in protein. Jack Link’s offers eleven flavors of jerky and several other meat products. And trust me on this, you can eat just one. For more information, check www.linksnacks.com.

* Trolling motor: There’s nothing worse than fishing without a quality trolling motor, and Minn Kota makes the best in the business -- and I’ve tried them all. I also highly recommend Minn Kota’s new CoPilot remote control system that allows wireless operation of selected trolling motor models from anywhere in the boat and without having to use cords or a foot pedal. That’s a real plus. The patented system consists of a compact remote control unit (about the size of a vehicle keyless entry remote) and a receiver unit that easily attaches to the motor. The CoPilot comes with snap-lock mounting brackets that allow the remote control unit to be mounted on any fishing rod for easy, hands-on operation. This is a revolutionary product that allows you to navigate your boat and fish simultaneously. For more information, check www.minnkota.com.
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Sunday, September 2, 2007

Tips For Fishing Halibut

These tips are just my opinions from what I have seen working on boats. If you have other methods that have worked for you feel free to comment.

1) Sinkers-
I have found that using a stationary torpedo sinker works best. It keeps you bait close to the bottom where you want it.
Lots of people like the sliding sinker method either using the plastic clips that you can buy or using swivels to let you line run freely threw the sinker. The down side of this is that you do not know where you bait is. It could be swimming up on the surface and you would never know. On a crowded party boat this means only one thing TANGLES!

2) Trap rigs-
Using a trap rig will increase the numbers of halibut you catch. Any one who has fished halibut before has almost certainly had the bait shredded from just above the tail. The trap rig will help you hook those short bitters.
When making your trap rigs make sure it fits the size bait you are using. You want the front hook to be in the nose like normal. The second hook (a treble hook) you want it to be placed just behind the anal fin with not to much slack in-between. Don’t make it to short either or your bait will curl up and not be able to swim.

3) Setting the hook-
When you get bit do not be in to big of a hurry to set the hook. Many times halibut will bite it and just sit there, if you are to quick on the hook set you will rip the bait out of there mouth. One method I have found to work well is to slowly lift you rod and pull the bait from the fish. It will think it is trying to get away and when it hits again it will usually get the whole bait in its mouth. Then set the hook. (They may come back three or four times before actually eating the bait.)
This takes a little bit of practice to get the feel for when they really have a good hold of the bait. (It will feel like dead weight on the end of you line) Once you get the hang of it I think you will find it works very well.

4) Big bait-
Halibut can eat very large bait. Do not be afraid to throw out the biggest sardine you can find. You may not catch as many fish doing this but the ones you do get will be big. I have caught a 32lb halibut on a 13 inch mackerel.
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Saturday, September 1, 2007

Choosing the Best Boat to Use for Walleye Fishing

You might be wondering, 'Do I need a boat to fish for walleye? Can't I just catch the fish from the shore?' Of course you can, but if you've had experience with walleye before, you know that they tend to change location depending on the season and on where their main food is located.

Some of the best walleye catches are also difficult to access from the shore. When walleye congregate in deeper waters, why miss out when you can be in on the action in the comfort of your own boat? Here are some things you might want to consider when buying or choosing a boat for walleye fishing:

Consider the frequency of your fishing trips.
If you fish a couple of times a year, you'll need a simple, no-frills boat. You might also want to invest in something cheaper but sturdy.

Consider your fishing style.
Walleye tend to make their appearance during the nighttime. If you'll be fishing mostly for this fish, consider the creature comforts and protection your boat can offer when you'll be using it .

Consider boat size
The size of the boat matters, especially if you will be fishing with a companion or two. You might also want to consider how well your boat will handle the passengers and equipment. A 14-foot boat, for example, will probably be comfortable enough for two to three anglers plus equipment. Longer ones can hold more.

Do you need a motor?
Consider the size of the lake or reservoir you will be fishing. A medium to large body of water will require that you use a boat with a motor so you can change locations easily. Imagine paddling your way around a lake as big as Lake Erie just to find your walleye.

Which bottom?
The way a fishing boat's bottom is shaped will impact how it performs in the water. A flat bottom, for example, is a good boat to use if the water isn't choppy and you don't need a lot of speed. For deeper waters, a V-bottom boat will work better because the shape cuts the water more efficiently, allowing you to move faster. If the lake you'll be fishing in is a bit large, consider a steeper V-bottom for more speed and a smoother ride.

Material and design
Boats that are perfect for walleye fishing come in a variety of layouts and styles. Simply choose which one will best fit your needs. As for materials, choose boats made of fiberglass or aluminum. They're sturdy and tough enough to see you through hundreds of walleye fishing trips.

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Thursday, August 30, 2007

Adam’s Plaice Fishing Tips

Adam on catching plaice: all you need to know
As the finest fishermen of my generation, as well as a ladies man of no little repute, journalist, beer drinker, driver of fast cars, actor, artist, author, physicist, wit and bon viveur extraordinaire, I feel it my duty to pass on some tips as to how you, the little people, can catch plaice, that most noble and hard-to-fool of species. Indeed it has often been said that plaice are the most difficult to catch of all the fishes that swim the oceans blue, as well as the most rewarding.

Only an angler of dedication, skill and a noble mien may hope to succeed on a regular basis. But with my help even the common man may be able to catch the occasional specimen of pleuronectes platessa, as we biologists know them.

It was Isaac Walton himself who once said, “The plaice be the fearfullest of fishes.” He said this as he bought me a pint of foaming ale for outcatching him three fish to one for the third day running on his own boat. As I said to Dick Walker and Ivan Marks at the time “You’ve got a lot to learn from me, boys.”

And now I have graciously decided to pass on just a little of my vast and encyclopaedic knowledge on the subject of plaice fishing to you, my humble acolytes. So where shall I begin? What hope can I bring, like a St. Francis of Assisi of fishermen, to even such as you? What spark of inspiration can I pass on to

Those Adam plaice fishing tips in full…
  • Bag the best place on the boat from the start.
  • Refuse all requests to move, even by the merest fraction of an inch.
  • Use any and all illegal narcotic attractants to lure the fish to your hook rather than anyone else’s.
  • Whatever floating beads, spoons, exotic oils you use, keep it to yourself. Say you are using a size 8/0 with a wire trace and mackerel bait.
  • Cut off and throw over the side anyone else’s rig that looks vaguely competent or anything like yours.


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Sunday, August 26, 2007

Fishing Montana Style - Diversity and Opportunity

Its summertime in Montana and the fishing is fantastic. There’s something for every angler throughout the state so grab your gear and pick your favorite.

Western Montana
Early summer is a hot time for catching the voracious pike. These post-spawn predators are looking for something to eat. Cut bait is always a sure thing, or try Rapala’s “Mystic Minnow” or weedless spinners. Lures in chartreuse and white seem to work the best this time of year, and concentrate on depths of 20-feet or less.

Check out Swan and Seeley Lakes off of Hwy 89, or head west along Hwy 2 to the Thompson Chain of Lakes. All three – Upper, Middle and Lower – fish well in early summer. Blanchard Lake, near Whitefish, is another pike hot spot, although be aware of the slot limits. Anglers are allowed 4 pike less than 28 inches and one greater than 36 inches.

Also try the Flathead River and the sloughs. Boaters can put in at the Sportsman Bridge fishing access site off of Hwy 82 on the Flathead River and head up the river to the mouths of Fennon Slough and Rose Creek.

When you’re fishing the sloughs, you can also fish for bass particularly in July after they’ve spawned. Toss out from the bank looking for good hiding spots such as submerged logs and other underwater structures. Use spinner baits in white and chartreuse, as well as Roboworms or Senko’s in 4’s and 5’s.

Noxon Reservoir at Thompson Falls is the premiere small mouth bass fishery in Western Montana. Fish rock structures and submerged weed beds using crankbaits, plastic worms and spinner blades.

Lake Blaine and Echo Lake near Kalispell offer great bass fishing particularly using a boat to fish depths around 12 to 15-feet where the bass are hiding. If the water is high enough at Echo, take advantage of the access to float over and fish Abbot and Peterson Lakes.

A little farther south along Hwy 93, angle the Flathead River below Kerr dam down to Perma. There’s fishing access at the mouth of Robertson Creek. The site is at mile post 88.5 on Highway 200, 3.4 miles east of the junction with Hwy 135. The area is just below the Flathead Indian Reservation allowing 4-miles of fishing out of the reservation boundaries; however, if you’re fishing on the reservation be sure to obtain a tribal fishing permit and information.

In addition, harvesting bass on many of the lakes requires a warm water fisheries stamp, which costs $5.00 and is available from any licensing agent.
Sack up the Kokanee at Lake Mary Ronan off of Hwy 93 or Koocanusa Reservoir in Libby. Jig around 30 to 40-feet using the standard maggot with white corn on a Swedish Pimple or Glo-Hook. Alternatively, cast with Doubly Whammys and wedding rings with a snubber to protect the tender mouths of the Kokes.

Take advantage of the rivers before the heat really kicks in and slows down the bite. Outside of Missoula, the Bitterroot, Blackfoot and Clark Fork Rivers dominate the trout fly fishing action. With practically unlimited options in fly selections, check with local outfits to see what’s working at that particular time. But be sure to include a few hoppers in your arsenal since they’re fairly consistent this time of year, and keep a nymph with a streamer handy if all else fails.

Don’t miss hitting the lake trout in Flathead Lake. There’s a “Hex” mayfly hatch the end of June in Polson Bay at the end of June, which bring in large schools of whitefish. Lake trout take advantage of this food source, so downrig or jig the Narrows the last week of June or first week of July for trophy lakers.

Central Montana
For walleye use bottom bouncers with a worm harness, crankbaits, or try perch patterned Rapalas. Canyon Ferry fished well early in the summer, and expect Holter and Hauser Lakes to follow. Sink your lure to roughly 5 to 10-feet deep on Canyon Ferry and 10 to 15-feet on Hauser and Holter.

Other good walleye fisheries in Central Montana include Lake Frances near Valier and Tiber Reservoir close to Shelby. As the water warms up throughout the summer, try switching to a jig with a nightcrawler or minnow.

If the walleye fishing slows down, many anglers switch to fishing for rainbows in these same waters. The post-spawn bows are hitting the open water and respond well to trolling hotshots and cowbells, or try a crawdad colored jig. Fishing is best early in the morning, late in the evening or on overcast days.

The Beaverhead and the Bighole Rivers are producing well this season with lots of 14 to 17 inch rainbows. Water should be clearing up in most rivers by early June, and more water with cooler temperatures is expected this season, which will help fishing throughout the summer.

Try stonefly nymphs trailed behind with a streamer. Caddis, pheasant-tail and prince nymphs are also good bets. On crummy days try Blue-winged Olives. For the best chance of success give yourself plenty of time to enjoy different sections of each of these rivers.

There are lots of Missouri River post-spawn rainbows that are reaching 15 to 21 inches. They’re feeding actively this time of year and hitting lures and flies. Try the Mepps 2, yellow and black Panther Marten, or Wooly Buggers on a casting bubble; fish within two miles of Little Prickly Pear Creek, Dearborn River or Little Sheep Creek. While you’re cruising for trout, nymph the mid-river runs for large schools of mountain whitefish reaching up to three-pounds.

The Missouri River also boasts a healthy population of quality brown trout that are active in the shallows mornings and evenings. Try a yellow Panther Martin, Mepps 3, a hammered brass spoon or small yellow spoon. The size limit on browns allows one harvested over 22-inches.
Eastern Montana

Tongue River Reservoir in July is the state’s premiere crappie fishery. Lots of deep bays and ample campsites provide good opportunities for fishing from the shoreline. Expect the Tongue to live up to its reputation of limits of ten-inch fish each day; a tiny minnow or a small spinner blade are most productive.

Walleye fishing is big in Eastern Montana. Even though drought and low water are constant issues, Fort Peck is renowned for this popular species and offers top-notch fishing throughout the summer. In June and July go to 25-feet with a bottom bouncer and a worm harness. Try crankbaits off of the points and deep bays in the evenings.

Nelson and Fresno are relatively shallow reservoirs that provide good walleye and pike opportunities. Dead drift and fish mudlines on windy days with a jig head and minnow on Nelson. Fresno has a uniform bottom running approximately 40-feet deep making it ideal for bottom bouncing with a worm harness and a spinner blade. Don’t worry about fishing bays because many have silted in through the years.

Tiber has struggled since the introduction of Cisco as its forage base a decade ago due to low water and winter draw downs during their spawning time. Nevertheless, Tiber reports abundant 13 to 14-inch walleye.

The Tongue River Reservoir holds the state record of a 37.5 pound pike caught in 1972. Use large spoons such as Five of Diamonds, red & white, black & white and alligator patterns; fish off of the points and in deeper bays. Suspend a smelt from a bobber in bays to tempt in the big boys.
Fort Peck has lots of deep bays and shoreline that provide good pike fishing opportunities. Mepps Musky Killer and spoons work well. Expect to catch them incidental when bottom bouncing for walleye. This is the same for Fresno and Nelson Reservoirs.

On Frances and Tiber troll jointed plugs or light spoons 100-feet behind the boat for pike throughout the day. On Frances dead drift on windy days with a Twister Tail. You can expect to catch a few quality perch using this method.

Lake trout are abundant in Fort Peck. Downrig on the bottom - roughly 125-feet deep – on the midlake bar between Haxby Point and the four pumphouses on the dam using a black flutter spoon with Smelly Jelly. Tiber boasts a relatively small population of lake trout. They’re usually caught near the dam jigging in deep water with a spoon on the bottom.

Fort Peck also has six-pound small mouth bass in the Forchette Bay area. Use crank baits, spinner blades and Twister Tails. Also try the Yellowstone River near Miles City, or head to Bighorn Lake near Billings. Structure oriented fish, such as small and large mouth bass, can be captured using crankbaits along the steep canyon walls.

No matter what your fishing preference might be Montana has a diversity and abundance for every type of angler. The hardest part is simply deciding where to go!
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Wednesday, August 22, 2007

Fishing Tips from an Expert

by Janis Couvreux

It’s a given that French men are stubborn, or at least difficult. My husband is French, and stubborn on top of that. So I think I can safely say that this man is a “double whammy.”

For our Atlantic Ocean crossing, we counted on a 30-day trip. However, one must prepare for the unforeseen: multiple windless days, perhaps equipment breakdowns…any number of things or events that could prolong the trip. With this in mind, we easily stored enough provisions for two months. We hoped that we would catch fish to supplement our diet, and vary the meals, but we couldn’t count on that. So whatever fish would be caught, if any, would be a welcome, surprise bonus.

So, Michel, who is not a fisherman, set about learning how one should fish while sailing, especially in deep ocean waters. We had quite a few sailing book “how-tos” and tales of others’ voyages in our on-board library. There were many advised tricks, fail-safe methods, and “guaranteed-to-catch” whatevers, so he settled on a method culled from several sources. It would seem that recreating the impression of a school of fish was a favorable tactic.
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