Showing posts with label fishing reels. Show all posts
Showing posts with label fishing reels. Show all posts

Monday, February 11, 2008

Trolling Reels - Saltwater Lever Drag Two Speed Fishing Reels For Big Game


Trolling reels are typically used for offshore big-game trolling in open water. Trolling is the process of dragging both bait and lures behind a moving vessel, which is a productive way to locate schools of migratory fish. The reason being, when a boat trolls over a school of fish, the wake and commotion on the surface emulates a ball of bait. This triggers the feeding instincts of many offshore species and immediately sends the leading edge of the school towards the commotion to investigate, with the rest of the pack following. As the most aggressive fish in the school frantically try and chase down this commotion, the trolling lures, jigs and baits are the first hint of a meal that they come across. They charge at them with reckless abandon, inhaling what appears to the fish as vulnerable stragglers, desperately trying to catch up with the rest of the pack.

As soon as one of the trolling lures or baits is inhaled, the trolling reel begins to sing, with the clicker of the reel creating a loud noise that notifies the angler to get ready. This sends the anglers into a dash for their gear, yelling "hook-up", which immediately causes the captain to throw the vessel into neutral to stop the boat. As the momentum of the vessel carries the boat forward, the crew begins to throw live bait, either by pieces or in full scoops. By now, the rest of the migrating school has caught up to the commotion and is met with the temptation of live bait, sending them into a feeding frenzy.

However, a wide-open bite is not always the result of a hook-up while trolling. When the fish are down, or when the conditions are far from ideal, trolling will produce the majority of the catch, with no feeding frenzy following the trolled up fish. On these days, it is essential to land every troll fish and having the right equipment is critical in accomplishing this. Trolling rod and reel combos are the most expensive combos on the market today. Due to their importance in locating roaming schools of open water fish, manufacturers like Shimano®, Penn®, Daiwa®, Okuma® and Accurate® incorporate the finest materials and technologies to ensure strength and durability in producing the best fishing reel capable of handling record-breaking trophies.

Trolling reels are typically found in the lever drag system. On these types of fishing reels, the drag pressure adjusts with the slide of a lever, which is located on the top of the reel to the right. Designated markings of, or similar to freespool, strike and full are found on reels like the Penn® International series, Shimano Tiagra® and the Acurrate Twin Drag® saltwater trolling reels. Most later models come in a two- speed version, with two separate gear ratios that serve different purposes. The high gear is to gain as much line as possible with every turn of the handle, sacrificing torque and power. Low gear, on the other hand, provides tremendous torque and in return, sacrifices the ability to retrieve a substantial amount of line per crank. When properly utilized, both gears are designed to maximize the chances of quickly and efficiently landing scale-busting size fish.

The most noticeable difference in a trolling reel are the two rings that sit atop all trolling fishing reels. These rings are part of the frame and hold an enormous amount of strength. Trolling straps are attached through these rings, as well as big game harnesses and on some occasions, a back-up rod and reel combo, a common practice when fishing on long range boats out of San Diego for huge bluefin and yellowfin tuna. Trolling reels are so strong and powerful, I have even seen anglers cut these rings off and even go so far as to make custom frames to readily access the spool and use trolling reels as live bait reels. I do not recommend this practice, as many of the latest star-drag conventional reels will serve the same purpose.

With the high prices of fuel, trolling around in offshore waters can be very costly. That is why every serious big-game angler should consider having the best saltwater tackle available when it comes to their arsenal. The properly maintained saltwater combo can mean the difference in coming home with a trophy of a lifetime, or coming home skunked, carrying an empty sack.

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Thursday, November 1, 2007

Caring for Your Fly Reels

Reels are not 100% corrosion proof. We want our reels to be lightweight and yet we want them to be strong and durable. We want them to look good and resistant to saltwater. Of course the drag must be smooth and have the stopping power of a train.

Above all we want them affordable. Reel manufacturers have to make a compromise with the design of the reels. The reels design compromises between what is needed and what can be done and accomplish it all at a reasonable price. Aluminum is lightweight, but corrodes easy. Titanium is better but unaffordable. So, most are made with aluminum that must be covered with a protective coating. Paint isn’t much good in saltwater.

A powdered coating is better or anodizing the aluminum. There are many other parts such as screws, nuts, washers, springs, etc. that have to be made from another metal whether it is stainless steel, brass, bronze, etc. Because of the combination of metals corrosion can be caused by electrolysis.

There are some simple tips you can follow that will help eliminate the corrosion process.Avoid dipping the reel in water as much as possible, especially saltwater.

Don’t hit the reel against rocks, the boat deck, hard floors, or any other hard surfaces. Bare metal can be exposed with the scratches and dents made in the metal and will corrode.

When fishing on a boat, always place the rod butt down in such a way as to prevent sliding. Using a damp cloth under the butt of the rod is one of the ways you can prevent the rod from sliding.

DO NOT drop the reel in the sand. Sand is a hard surface and can cause scratches to the inner housing. It will also damage the discs and the bearings.

When the boat is moving, put the reel in a place so it is not exposed to the water spray. The force of the spray can get water into the reel where it will affect the bearings.

The housing of the ball bearings is made of stainless steel, but the ball bearings themselves are not. When the bearings corrode they will heat up and seize right in the middle of a fight with the catch of your dreams.

Immediately after fishing rinse the reel under a stream of low-pressure tap water. Remove the spool, shake off the excess water and set aside to dry before putting it back on the reel. If you have been fishing in saltwater upon returning home, give the reel a thorough cleaning with hot soapy water to remove the salt crystals, rinse and dry with a soft cloth. The reel is then ready to be put away for any length of time.

Reels should never be soaked for long periods of time. The fresh water will not remove the salt crystals and the water will start corroding the ball bearings. The cork drag plates can be distorted when soaked in water making a jerky drag.

Follow the manufacturer’s instructions when applying new grease and lubricate. A light coating of oil or car polish is required for the housing. If you fish year round in saltwater, this needs to be done at least 4 times per year.

Saltwater reel should be stored empty. The backing can be left on if it has been thoroughly cleaned to remove all of the salt crystals.

Always disengage the drag when storing the reel.

A handcrafted fine leather reel pouch with sheepskin lining should not be used with saltwater reels. They will trap salty moisture and can not be cleaned. As with the rod, a reel should never be put into a pouch wet especially after saltwater fishing. If it happens, the pouch must be cleaned and all the remnants of salt removed.

Store the reel on a shelf in a cabinet not in the pouch.
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