Cold Weather Trout Fishing Tips

by Trevor Kugler

A fishing article.As the year comes screeching to a halt, it means one thing to most of us who enjoy fishing for trout. It means that the weather is colder and the trout are much more sluggish and hard to catch than they are in warmer weather. Does this mean that we can't catch trout when the weather gets cold? No, not at all, it simply means that we need to keep certain things in mind when fishing in these types of conditions.

Fish, and this obviously includes trout, are cold blooded and as the water temperature drops, the fishes metabolism slows down. When a fishes metabolism slows down, they don't eat as much. And we as anglers know what it means when fish don't eat as much, right? Yep, they are much less apt to bite whatever we as anglers are offering.

Keeping in mind that trout aren't going to be as willing to eat as they will when water temperatures are higher, we as anglers need to vary our approach a little bit. This means using baits/lures that are smaller than we normally might. For example when the weather is cold, using a whole night crawler isn't going to be as productive as it might be in July. When the weather (and subsequently the water temperature) gets cold, try using small baits like meal worms and maggots. Or maybe just a piece of night crawler?

The same principle holds true for baits. Where a ¼ ounce Rooster Tail might be employed in July, in January downsize to an 1/8 ounce version of the same lure. The speed of your retrieve should be slowed down when the trout are sluggish due to cold water as well. The bottom line is this: When water temperatures plummet, trout want to expend as little energy as they can getting food. Keep this in mind when fishing for trout in cold weather.

When the trout are sluggish, it's that much more important to make sure you're fishing at the most opportune times. This is where paying attention to the weather and/or moon come into play. These two natural occurrences have a remarkable affect on the behavior of fish, and understanding how and why is important. Maximize your fishing time by learning how the weather and moon affect the behavior of the fish you're trying to catch.

Finally, you have to keep your hands warm while you're fishing, or you're in trouble. The methods I use to catch trout require me to have the unfettered use of my fingers, which means that I need fingerless gloves to help keep my hands warm. Keeping your hands warm while trout fishing is cold weather is of the utmost importance. Nothing can ruin a perfectly good fishing excursion like having your hands feel like they might fall off at any moment, I promise you that.

Follow these simple tips for trout fishing is cold weather and you'll be much more comfortable and successful. Remember, just because the weather temperatures change it doesn't mean that you have to stop fishing for trout.

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Night Snapper Fishing in South Florida

Night Snapper Fishing in South Florida. A fishing article.My most favorite fishing charter is, light tackle fishing for mangrove snapper especially at night. In Naples Florida, where I operate, our primary snapper is mangrove but we also catch yellowtail, mutton and red snapper.

To catch snapper consistently at night requires knowledge of and adherence to basic fundamentals. If the guidelines listed below are followed you will be successful and find the same enjoyment that hundreds of my customers have had over the years.

The first order of business is to locate a spot where snapper hangout in good numbers. Most often this will be a ledge, submerged shipwreck, underwater spring or even an area where barrel sponges are closely grouped.

Once you have determined where you are going to fish it is critical to anchor the boat in the proper location. To make certain the boat is properly located I drop a marker buoy near where I want my boat to end up, after we have dropped the anchor. A cyalume stick or small light attached to the buoy makes it much easier to properly position the boat.

To get your boat properly situated, drop your anchor in such manner as to allow the boat to drift back towards the structure but not over or beyond it. Ideally you would be a few feet above tide from the spot with the ocean current moving from your stern directly toward the spot. This is extremely important.

After positioning your boat, you should illuminate the water off the stern with deck lights or other auxiliary lighting. After getting the area lit you should begin chumming, either by cutting up handfuls of bait and tossing them into the water or placing ground up fish in a chum bag hung from the stern. Your chum line should travel in the current over your submerged structure.

Now that all the work is done the fun begins. I like to take a 7-foot casting rod, Newell 2/0 revolving spool reel with 20-pound line with little or no weight and a 3/0 long shank hook. Disengage the reel and strip the line out and let it flow out behind the boat. Keep stripping the line out until you the bait is about 150 feet behind the boat and at that time, if you have not gotten a bite retrieve your it and start again. I suggest you vary the weight from nothing and go up so that the bait sinks to where the fish are hanging. Most often they will eventually come up to the surface but adding weight gets the bait closer to the fish when you first start. Experiment with weights and depths until you locate the school of fish.

If you follow these techniques and go to a spot that holds fish I guarantee you will have success more times than not. Be patient but determined and you will be rewarded.

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Winter Walleye Ice Fishing

The ice is about to really set on some major lakes and walleye veterans will be hitting their spots like rabid raccoons. So how do these guys find their prime winter spots. Well, most likely there was some trial and error involved, and some stories from this guy and that, and a little luck here at this spot, or that one.You get the idea, hot spots comes from little pieces of information that have been gathered over years of experience to give you some old standby spots.

However, with ice fishing there are signs of angler presence that don't exist in open water months. And one of the biggest signs is holes. Yes, it may be obvious, but some people don't do enough ice fishing hole analysis when ice fishing. On bigger lakes, hole analysis may be very hard to do, because of the enormous amount of water that one must cover. On small lakes though you can see ice fishing hole patterns with a bit of walking or snowmobiling. I don't ever recommend encroaching on people's holes while they are there , and using old holes that people have drilled may be a bit of a no no for some anglers. (If you don't have an auger though , and are on larger lakes there is nothing wrong with using some older holes that are abandoned to get to some water with just a small axe, but don't ever intrude on ice fishing holes blatantly).

What I am recommending is more of analyzing where these fisherman are locating these holes. Above the surface of the water there is little to differentiate one piece of ice from another. But the holes tell a good story about the fishing in the area.

One of the characteristics of the holes to analyze is their distance from the shore. Often times anglers will have found with electronics, or from experience, the point at which the bottom drops off into deeper water where walleye will hold.

This drop off may last for miles or only a few hundred feet. But, the point is, that you now have more information than you did by just blindly drilling holes all over the frozen tundra. When you search around these holes also look for signs of fish being caught. Like fish scales and blood from fish that are thrown on the ice to be saved to eat. This is obviously prime information.

Now if you want to come back to theses spots throughout the winter and it snows a good deal in your neck of winter paradise you need to mark these spots somehow. And you want to mark them so its not that obvious.If you have a gps unit this isn't that hard to do, but if you don't, and you are close to the shore, prop up some sticks in an odd way that you will be able to notice the next time you walk past them. If the holes are close by the shore count off your steps and write down how many steps it took you to get there.

It may sound a bit outdated , but it has a certain walleye hunting barbarian aspect to it , as opposed to saying , oh yeah, my hole is at N 75 blah blah blah, W 64 blah blah blah, you can say my hole is 75 paces off that giant oak out there.

If you don't have electronics to key in on underwater structure than use ice fishing hole analysis this winter to gather information on that will give you some success. Or you could just continue to walk 50 yards from the parking lot and use your auger more than you fish. Whatever floats your boat, both are fun, haha.

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An Alluring Sport :Exuma Bonefishing!

Can you conquer the bones? Sure, the Bahamas can offer sunshine, seclusion, solace, and a sexy tan, but did you know it can also offer the chance to engage in some of the best fishing in the world? Exuma bonefishing is truly a challenging and gripping sport and the regional coastlines are particularly exceptional for this spirited pastime. Bonefish are some of the most elusive fish in the sea and can be a slippery prey to hook; however with a knowledgeable guide and a few tricks and know-how, hooking yourself a "bone" can be a truly satisfying and pleasurable experience.

The Bonefish
Bonefish are native to the Caribbean, but are particularly plentiful just off the coast of the Exuma Islands. The immaculate sandy flats of the Exumas provide the ideal location for this sport, as bonefish keep to shallow muddy and sandy flats when digging for food. Parts of the south-east side of the island are known to have some particularly good spots. Bonefish are usually caught for the sport and spirit of the chase; they are not particularly known to be so great-tasting. In fact, bonefish are said to have the most fight per pound of any other fish!

Fly fishers flock to the islands of the Bahamas every year to experience the challenge and adventure of Exuma bonefishing. Bonefish are silvery in color and are very fast-moving; it is not uncommon to see three or four enthusiastic fishermen splashing merrily through the shallow waters, rods in hand, to chase down a school, which can reach up to approximately 300 fish. A bonefish can streak up to 25 miles per hour in order to evade sharks, barracudas, and of course, energetic fishermen! An average bonefish weighs between 4 and 6 pounds, but can reach up to a whopping 19 pounds. Although bonefishing is popular in any season, the months of May to July are said to be particularly exceptional for this spirited sport.

Exuma bonefishing
Bonefishing is not your typical fishing expedition by any means. Exuma has many resources and facilities where visitors, whether amateur or pro, can visit to learn the techniques of bonefishing and seek aid from experienced and enthusiastic guides. Most guides on the island have grown up in the area and are well-versed in the movements of this slippery, silvery fish. It is important to rig up your rod straight away while your guide prepares the boat; you definitely do not want to be caught unprepared as a school of bonefish swiftly heads your way. If the tides are high, you can expect to be fishing in creeks and mangrove shorelines, as Exuma bonefishing is tide-dependent. Depending on the weather and seasonal changes, the average number of bonefish schools sighted per day in Exuma is 40 to 400, while the average number of fish caught per day is between 3 and 45.

Essentials for Eager Bonefishers
Fly rods
Reels with plenty of backing (150-200 yards)
Spare flylines
Leader material/tippets
Flies (Gotchas, Christmas Island Specials, Charlies)
Pliers/clippers/hook sharpener
Wading shoes
Wading pack
Fly tying kit
Sunglasses, hat & sunscreen
Water bottle
Light rain gear

Whether you have the craving for an exhilarating fishing experience or just want to try something new and different, Exuma bonefishing is the ideal choice. It is definitely not a passive activity and can be enjoyable for the whole family. Hooking your first bonefish is a unique and fulfilling experience that may have you adopting the sport full-time. As any local bonefisherman will tell you, there is nothing as exciting as casting your line out into that azure sea and waiting in anticipation for that impending thrill of the chase. The avid bonefisher is always scanning, anticipating, and moving in order to hook their next big one.

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Fly Fishing For Bass

When you mention fly fishing to people, many times they think you are fishing exclusively for trout. However, there are some amazing spots you can fly fish for trophy sized bass as well. Both largemouth and smallmouth bass abound in rivers and lakes, so why not try your hand fly fishing for bass?

Many experienced fly fishermen report that bass fly fishing can be extremely challenging as well as extremely satisfying. Bass have larger mouths than trout, so your choice of lures is much more diverse. They strike hard and fight strong, so when you are fly fishing for bass, expect to be exhilarated by the fight in these guys!

Experts suggest that you use a 6-7 weight rod, but if you are especially experienced, you can use a 4-5 weight rod. If you choose the smaller rod, you may have trouble casting the larger flies, so be aware of that. You can use a floating or a sinking line with a weight forward taper. You should have a 7 ½ to 9 foot leader tapered down to a 10 pound test.

Most bass are opportunistic feeders and will bite at anything. In general, however, flies for bass fishing are usually larger and influence a bigger bite. Try big muddler minnows, clousy minnows, wooly buggers, poppers, leech patterns, and crayfish patterns. Size 8 or 10 would be a little on the small side while size 2 or 1/0 would be a little too large, so opt for something in between.

Largemouth bass live in shallow water habitats among reeds, water lilies, and other vegetation naturally found in the water. They are adapted to warm waters in the 80 degree range and are seldom found deeper than twenty feet down. They prefer clear waters with little or no current. They stay fairly active year-round, but tend to stay near the bottom in the winter months.

Great bass fly fishing can be found in various locations throughout the United States. In the northeastern United States, try the rivers and streams in the Adirondack Mountains such as the Mohawk or Black Rivers. There are also some prized bass in the Great Lakes region. Southern Ontario in Canada can also provide some great opportunities to catch trophy sized bass.

Bass fly fishing can be a great experience for both the beginning fly fisherman as well as those with a little more experience. Fly fishing for bass requires a little bit of finesse and some tenacity when they bite. Stay with the fish and pull a whopper out of the water you can be proud of!

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Florida Snook Fishing

Snook Fishing in Florida includes 3 species of fish and a number of different methods to suit everyone. This is a sport that everyone can enjoy! Snook fishing is done from canals, bridges, backcountry, beaches, inlets, jetties and piers. Boats are optional!

To say that snook fishing for enthusiasts borders on a cult-like passion, is an understatement. Whether it’s the thrill of the hunt or the heart stopping thump when the fish grabs the bait, snook fishing enthusiasm appears to be contagious and chronic.

As an avid snook fishing nut, I want to see the snook habitat maintained and improved. Greater snook numbers mean better fishing for me and for my grandkids. That's why we've established a web site that donates 25% of it's revenues to the Fish America Foundation.

Fish America is a community based grant foundation dedicated to improving fish habitats. Over the last 20 years, the FishAmerica Foundation has provided over $8 million for more than 750 grassroots conservation and research projects all across the country.

Snook fishing has become so popular that sport fishing is putting pressure on the population gains according to a Florida State Assessment. On the Gulf Coast, mounting fishing pressure and deadly red tide flare-ups have diminished the gains from stricter regulations imposed in January 2002.

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Caring for Your Fly Reels

Reels are not 100% corrosion proof. We want our reels to be lightweight and yet we want them to be strong and durable. We want them to look good and resistant to saltwater. Of course the drag must be smooth and have the stopping power of a train.

Above all we want them affordable. Reel manufacturers have to make a compromise with the design of the reels. The reels design compromises between what is needed and what can be done and accomplish it all at a reasonable price. Aluminum is lightweight, but corrodes easy. Titanium is better but unaffordable. So, most are made with aluminum that must be covered with a protective coating. Paint isn’t much good in saltwater.

A powdered coating is better or anodizing the aluminum. There are many other parts such as screws, nuts, washers, springs, etc. that have to be made from another metal whether it is stainless steel, brass, bronze, etc. Because of the combination of metals corrosion can be caused by electrolysis.

There are some simple tips you can follow that will help eliminate the corrosion process.Avoid dipping the reel in water as much as possible, especially saltwater.

Don’t hit the reel against rocks, the boat deck, hard floors, or any other hard surfaces. Bare metal can be exposed with the scratches and dents made in the metal and will corrode.

When fishing on a boat, always place the rod butt down in such a way as to prevent sliding. Using a damp cloth under the butt of the rod is one of the ways you can prevent the rod from sliding.

DO NOT drop the reel in the sand. Sand is a hard surface and can cause scratches to the inner housing. It will also damage the discs and the bearings.

When the boat is moving, put the reel in a place so it is not exposed to the water spray. The force of the spray can get water into the reel where it will affect the bearings.

The housing of the ball bearings is made of stainless steel, but the ball bearings themselves are not. When the bearings corrode they will heat up and seize right in the middle of a fight with the catch of your dreams.

Immediately after fishing rinse the reel under a stream of low-pressure tap water. Remove the spool, shake off the excess water and set aside to dry before putting it back on the reel. If you have been fishing in saltwater upon returning home, give the reel a thorough cleaning with hot soapy water to remove the salt crystals, rinse and dry with a soft cloth. The reel is then ready to be put away for any length of time.

Reels should never be soaked for long periods of time. The fresh water will not remove the salt crystals and the water will start corroding the ball bearings. The cork drag plates can be distorted when soaked in water making a jerky drag.

Follow the manufacturer’s instructions when applying new grease and lubricate. A light coating of oil or car polish is required for the housing. If you fish year round in saltwater, this needs to be done at least 4 times per year.

Saltwater reel should be stored empty. The backing can be left on if it has been thoroughly cleaned to remove all of the salt crystals.

Always disengage the drag when storing the reel.

A handcrafted fine leather reel pouch with sheepskin lining should not be used with saltwater reels. They will trap salty moisture and can not be cleaned. As with the rod, a reel should never be put into a pouch wet especially after saltwater fishing. If it happens, the pouch must be cleaned and all the remnants of salt removed.

Store the reel on a shelf in a cabinet not in the pouch.

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Terrific Fishing Tips

by Tom Cwynar

Skunked is when you catch nothing-not a bluegill, not a bass, not a catfish, not a crappie. You fish all day and come home empty-handed. You don't even have a good story to tell.

"They weren't biting," you mutter to your family.

It happens to everyone now and then. We all can have bad luck. It's part of fishing. If you get skunked a lot, though, maybe bad luck isn't the problem.

Fishing is one of those great sports in which some little tip or trick might change your luck from bad to good. In our last Outside In issue, we asked readers for some of the fishing tips that helped them.

Lindsay Arens, who lives in Florissant, said she discovered a great trick when her school, South West Middle School, went to Camp Lakewood YMCA.

"When our cabin went fishing," she wrote, "we had our choice of worms on our hook or corn." Lindsay said she chose both.

"I took the worm and put it on my hook, and then put corn on to disguise the hook."

At first she didn't catch anything, she said, but when she was helping a friend unhook a small bluegill from her line, Lindsay's bobber went down.

"I reeled in my line and, turns out, I caught an 11-pound catfish!," she said. "Later, I went fishing with a group from the boy's cabin and was the only person to catch a fish. It was
a 6-pound catfish."

"Basically, If you want to catch a good-size fish," she added, "combine a worm and corn on a hook."

Lindsay's tip works for other baits, too. If everyone else is using one bait or lure and not catching much, then try something different. Hook on a crayfish or minnow or use an artificial lure. You can also change the depth below your bobber or cast to a different spot.

The trouble Lindsay and her friend had unhooking that bluegill brings to mind another good tip. A glove or a hand towel will help you hold those slippery fish. It'll also help protect you from their sharp fins. Put some long-nosed pliers into your tackle bag or box, too. They're great for removing fish hooks without hurting you or
the fish.

Anthony Klenke, who is 11 years old and lives in Union, said his fishing tip works great for all kids and adults.

"Use locusts for smallmouth bass in the summertime," he says. "That's how I caught my big fish."

Locusts make great bait for trout and catfish, too. When Missouri had its big locust hatch in 1998, the fish were slurping them up like crazy. And grasshoppers, which are related to locusts, are what Nick Adams uses for bait in Ernest Hemingway's famous story, "Big Two-Hearted River."

Anthony didn't say how big his fish was, but he warned us that locusts are sometimes hard to corral. Here's something to think about: If a hard-to-catch bait makes it easy to catch fish, would an easy-to-catch bait make it hard to catch fish?

Hannah Gragg, who is 12 and lives in Belton, says, "If you are fishing on a sunny day and you happen to see big patches of moss, cast your fishing line near the edge of the moss."

She explains that bright sun blinds fish that are looking up to get a lure or worm, but the moss provides shade and the fish can see the bait.

Shade on sunny days almost always attracts fish. The fish seem to feel safer there. A big tree that leans into the water from shore will almost always have fish near it or under it.

It's a pretty good tip to cast your bait near things whenever you can. Fish like to hang near logs, rocks and docks. It doesn't matter whether these things are under the water or half-in and half-out of the water. Another great place to cast is next to
a weedbed.

Some kids always cast straight out from the shore or dock, but lots of fish like the shorelines.

One of the best spots is along the dropoff where shallow water turns into deep water. You can fish this better by casting a little bit out into the lake but off to the side. Then if you bring your bait back slowly, it'll spend more time in this "fishy" zone.

The best fishing pole is not the biggest one. A good rig for most fishing is a 5 1/2 foot, light-action rod with a push-button spinning reel filled with 6-pound test line. Don't try to catch fish using line that looks more like rope. Fish may be dim, but they aren't totally dumb.

Besides, all reels have an adjustment, called a drag, that releases line when the fish pulls hard. With the drag set correctly, you can catch a 20-pounder on 6-pound test line.

If you do, we'll be asking you for fishing tips.

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Four Reasons to go Fishing in Canada

Canada has the largest system of fresh waters in the world, covering nearly 7% of its land mass. Its continuous coastline is also the longest at over 240,000 km. Canada is also a country that has strict conservation rules about its marine environment, making it a favorite fishing destination for both locals and tourists. Some benefits of fishing in Canada include:

Location

Canada is known for its scenic beauty and the diversity of its geography, ecological systems and even climates. It is a large country, second only to Russia and its natural abundance is a rich mine of raw resources, including of course, fish.

Due to its size, Canada has more land than people so it has plenty of locations that are perfect for fishing. In fact, there are hundreds of fishing clubs, lodges and outfitters that offer their services to both locals and tourists. Ontario alone offers four regions with over 400,000 rivers, streams and lakes that fishing hobbyists and enthusiasts can explore.

Choice
Canada has the largest number of rivers, lakes and other inland waters. There are some species of fish that are more plentiful in some areas while other areas sometimes ban the fishing of other species. But with so many fishing locations to choose from, it’s impossible not to find the perfect spot for a day or two of angling or fly fishing.

Fishing trips are also commonly organized by Canadian clubs and resorts, so locals and visitors have a choice whether they prefer a chartered boat or a simple drive-in for their fishing trip. In some areas, fishing is also allowed regardless of the season although certain restrictions apply on some species.

Bounty
Canada has minimal fishing pressure and pollution levels are kept low, so fish is plentiful. The country’s waters are also filled with numerous species of fish, including halibut, trout, salmon, pike, sturgeon, arctic grayling, steelhead and walleye, among others.

Conservation and preservation
Another benefit of fishing in Canada is its clear, safe waters. Conservation efforts are active in this country and are practiced not only by recreational and commercial fishermen but also by its many fishing clubs, outfitters and those involved in its tourism industry.

Fishing licenses are required for those who wish to share in the bounty of its waters and certain regulations are implemented to ensure that certain species are protected in specific areas at certain times of the year. Restrictions are also in place regarding harmful fishing practices. These efforts ensure that Canada’s waters remain healthy and that the benefits of fishing in this country will be experienced by generations more to come

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Putting All Your Fishing Gears Together

You have a rod, reel, line and leader; the tippet is optional, now you need to put them all together. Don’t rush and put it together just yet. First things first. You will need some paraffin. You can use some from a small white candle or you can buy a block in the canning section of a grocery store. Now rub some of the paraffin on the male parts of the rod. This will keep the sections from coming loose and will also keep it from getting stuck together. The sections can break if they come loose, and when they stick together, it seems like they have been glued. Any excess paraffin can be wiped off, so don’t worry about using too much.

Next, we are going to put on the reel. No, we are going to put the rod together yet. Below the handle on most rods there is a reel seat. The reel fits into the reel seat. One piece of the reel that looks like a foot slides into a slot on the reel seat. The reel is fastened to the rod with the sliding or screw rings.

Before you attach the reel, you may want to decide which hand you want to turn the reel handles with. If you set the reel with the handles on the right or the left side of the reel and find it does work well for you, you can always change it. Most right-handed people will cast with their right hand and reel with their left.

Now we are gong to put the rod together. First you start with the eyes misaligned and twist the sections together. After you have done that make sure they are all aligned. This will seat them properly. Check your rod section often to make sure they have enough paraffin. The paraffin will wear off during the course of a season.

Okay, your rod is together; your reel is filled and attached. Now place the butt of the rod on the ground, fold a small loop in the fly line and poke it up through the guides. The tiny little loop by the cork is a hook keeper, do not run line through it. When you get to the ring guides closer to the top of the rod, you will want to angle the rod enabling you to finish stringing the rod.

Now you will need to hold the tip of the rod with your right hand and carefully pull out the leader and the fly line. Rods can be broken during this time. So take extra care when pulling the fly line beyond the tip. After picking up the rod, pull line straight off the reel toward the stripping guide, not against the edge of the reel. The fly line will be damaged if you pull the line against the edge of the reel. Now, you are ready to cast.

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Filling a Reel with Line and Backing

On the loose end of the fly line you will find a tag reading “this end to reel”. You can tie it directly to your reel if you prefer or you can add backing to the fly line. Most reels are design to have backing wound onto the reel before the line is. Since the fly line can not fill a reel, backing helps to fill it up. With the backing on the reel first, the fly line will not reel out in small circles making casting more difficult. Plus you might need the backing if you ever hook a large fish.

750732_fishing_gear.jpg Tie the end of your backing to the center of the arbor of your reel with an arbor knot. Wind the backing around the arbor at least two times to ensure it doesn’t slip. Tighten it well and carefully reel the backing to about ¼ inch from the top edge of your reel and attach the fly line at the “this end to reel” tag. Tie the backing to the fly line using an Albright knot. Then carefully wind it on the reel. The reel should be full and the loose end ready to be attached to the leader. Tie the fly line to the thick end of the leader with a nail knot. A blood knot is often used to tie on a section tippet material.

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Fishing Tips: Leaders and Tippets

A “leader” is a length of tapered monofilament; the thick end is tied to the end of the fly line. The “tippet” is a length of level monofilament, one end is tied to the thin end of the leader and the other end is tied to the fly.

276902_fly_fishing.jpg The leaders are about nine feet long and transfer the power of the cast gently toward the fly. A numbering system was designed to match the diameter of the end of the rod because this is the part that is important. When looking for a leader the number system is backwards. The smaller the diameter the larger the number. It makes it easy that the tippets are number the same way. A 6X leader will fit with a 6X tippet. An end of the tippet is tied to the smaller end of the leader.

Most of the knots that develop close to the end of your line near the fly are called “wind knot “ and since you get these when casting in the two feet ahead of the fly. The knots weaken things. If the knots develop in the leader, it can get expensive cutting off the knots, and changing flies. By tying on about 2 feet of tippet material, you can save your leader. The tippet material is not expensive and when it gets too short, you can just ties on a new length.

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Caring for Your Fly Lines and Backing

No matter which kind of fly line you choose to use, you will need to take care of your fly line to ensure that it will last you a good long time. Fly line is not indestructible, and it will need a little care and a few precautions to ensure the life of your fly line. Fly lines get damaged in several ways. Most of the time a fly line will get damaged through mechanical wear and tear. Ripping through the ring guides, getting stepped on, running the line across coral, sand and mud.Even the UV rays from the sun along with excessive heat can be damaging. We can’t forget that exposing the fly line to chemical substances, such as suntan lotion, gasoline or insect repellant will damage the fly line. These chemicals can also damage the finish on you fly rod, so you will want to take extra precautions when using these products around your fly fishing equipment.

Fly line manufactures create the fly line so there is a lubricant inside the fly line coating. The porous coating allows the lubricant to slowly release which will keep the line sticky and leave it with the ability to float. Sand, mud and dirt will clog the pores blocking the lubricant so it can’t do its job. It is important to keep your floating line clean.

When the outer coating starts developing small cracks, it will be your first visible sign that a fly line is reaching the end of its life. Once you see the cracks, water will get into the line and the deterioration will progress rather quickly.

Leaving the fly line wound on a small spool, usually the reel, for long periods of time will create line memory. When the line will stay coiled when removed from the spool. If your line is coiled like the tail on a piglet, casting ability is hampered in turn it will affect the fly delivery.

With out proper care a fly line will only last for one season. With the proper care fly line will last for several seasons. It only requires a small amount of effort to take care of the fly line.

When fishing even in clean water there are microscopic particles of dirt that will stick to the floating line adding weight that will prevent the natural tendencies of the line to float. Some manufacturers include cleaner pads in the package with the line. They recommend that the working part of the line be wiped with the cleaner pad every time before it is to be used. The pads clean the surface of that line and leave behind a thin layer of lubricant to assist the line in moving through the rod guides. Other manufactures suggest washing the line using a mild soap and water and drying with a soft dry cloth afterwards. The floating line will ensure the expected performance of the line no matter how it is cleaned.

Backing hardly needs any maintenance when being used for freshwater fishing, but saltwater can effect the backing along with the UV rays and mildew. Backing should be inspected often for damaged or weak spots. When drying up, salt crystals can encrust the backing together.

Here are some other tips for line care.

Rinse the fly line in tap water before the salt and dirt dry. It should be stored on a large arbour, vented spool until the next fishing trip.

ly line and backing should be soaked in hot soapy water for several hours several times a year, more if you are saltwater fishing. This will loosen the dirt and salt.

he soap used to clean the fly line should be baby shampoo or natural hand soap.

Read the manufacturer’s instructions when apply a silicone based dressing to the fly line.

Sometimes they can do more harm than good.

By stretching the line before you take it out fishing, casting the line will be much easier.

Pick up the line rather than dragging it over rocks, sand, docks and deck which will cause damage to the coating.

Try not to step on your fly line.

When you need to practice casting, practice on a lawn, not dirt or asphalt.

When your fly line is not in use, keep it covered not exposed to the sun.

If you are using a double taper fly line, it is best stored on a large arbor, vented spool during you fishing down time. Do not leave on your fly reel.

When twist and kinks develop in your fly line, they can be removed by removing the leader and fly. Allow the line to troll behind the boat for a few minutes. If you are on a river, let it hang in the water. Then take a soft cloth and remove the twists by pulling the fly line between your fingers always from the rear to the front taper. This procedure may have to be repeated to remove all the twists and kinks.

Never store fly line wet. The damp fly line and backing place in an enclosed space can cause the line to become stained and mildewed. This will attack the outer coating resulting in poor casting and floating ability. Fly line is best stored on a large arbor, vented spool.

Catching a large fish is only possible with fishing gear that is in perfect working order. Use these tips to keep your fishing gear in the best condition possible, so that you will not let the BIG ONE get away.

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Royal Christmas Fly Fishing Lures

Julie Nielson designed this pattern for brook trout, but it also interests cutthroat, browns and the occasional rainbow or two or three, etc. Years ago it was expressed that if you want to catch brook trout, put red on your fly.

Materials List
Hook: Tiemco TMC100 or equivalent, sizes 12 to 18
Thread: Red, Griffith 6/0
Tail: Brown, Hoffman Tailing Pack
Wing/Post: White, Hi Vis from L & L Products or Para Post from Hairline Dubbing Co
Body: Metallic green, Krystal Flash
Hackle: Brown
Thorax: Mahogany dubbing

Tying Instructions
If you want, smash down the barb before you start tying.

1. 1. Attach thread near front of hook, and wind it smoothly to bend. Spin bobbin and make a tight micro-bump, two wraps, just past the bend. Wind thread forward of bend a little.
   
2. To prepare the tail fibers, hold feather by the tip and stroke the fibers downward. This makes the barbs angle out from the shaft and evens tips of the barbs. Pull off a dozen or so fibers and attach them on top of the hook to make a shank length tail. Splay the barbs by winding the thread rearward against the micro-bump. Trim butts and wind thread forward to the 2/3rds point on the shank.
   
3. Since the post material will be doubled, select an amount that is one-half of what you would normally use. If the strand of material is too thick for doubling just split it before tying it on. Lay a small amount of material parallel to shank and tie it in at the 2/3rds point with two thread wraps. Pull up both sides of the material and put two thread wraps in front of post and two in back. Wind thread neatly up and down the post to build a smooth base for the hackle. Wind thread back to just in front of tail.
   
4. Attach three strands of metallic green Krystal Flash above the barb. Wind thread forward and leave it hanging at hook point. Wind two of the strands together, wrap them forward to thread and secure. Bring third strand forward over the rear bump and secure. Wind thread forward over Krystal Flash to make red segment. Hold up Krystal Flash and wind thread forward toward post. Twist all three Krystal Flash strands together and wrap them forward to make the front green bump. Secure tightly.
   
5. Wind thread forward to eye, form a head and then wind it back to the post.
   
6. Select a brown hackle with barbs about 1-1/2 gap widths long. Modern saddle hackle is best. Prepare the feather by trimming barbs close to the shaft, leaving a little stubble. Lay the feather shiny side up on the near side of the post with the feather tip pointed toward the rear. Tie it in securely. Hold feather up along post and wrap thread smoothly up and down post securing the feather to the post.
   
7. Put a little dubbing on the thread; make one or two wraps behind the post and the rest in front. After wrapping thorax, return thread to the post. Keep a thin layer of dubbing on thread to hide the color.
   
8. Wrap hackle clockwise around the post. Use more hackle wraps for wilder waters and fewer for calmer waters - (Western VS Eastern? Maybe) Tie two dubbed thread half hitches against the post and over the hackle tip. Trim hackle tip and thread. The dubbed thread half hitches are hidden in the thorax. Trim post.

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Clark’s Fork of the Yellowstone River

by Don Fine

Clark’s Fork of the Yellowstone River named after William Clark of the Lewis and Clark fame has Wyoming’s only designated Wild and Scenic River. It originates high in the Beartooth Mountains on the northwest borders of Wyoming and southwest Montana and then flows southeasterly into Wyoming for approximately 40 miles before re-entering Montana where it flows north to join the Yellowstone River near Laurel, MT.

The Clark’s Fork headwaters are near Cooke City, MT and the river is less than 50 feet in width. The river is fast flowing with eager brookies along with Yellowstone cutthroats and rainbows. The Middle Section of the river begins below Hunter Peak Campground. Here the river is wider with long runs, some pocket water and riffles. Just below the Campground, the river begins to plummet through a thousand foot drop referred to as the canyon section.

Along the canyon section additional excellent trout streams, like Crandall Creek and Dead Indian Creek add their flow to the Clark’s Fork. Wading in this section can be treacherous. The canyon section’s recommended fishing period starts by August 1, but later is safer. Near Dead Indian Creek one finds the Sunlight Basin near the site where the Nez Pierce Indians fled south through the canyons to escape pursuit by the U.S. Calvary.

In the Lower Section of the Clark’s Fork, the river slows and widens considerably. Here are found long runs, deep pools and fair numbers of Yellowstone cutthroat, along with some Rocky Mountain whitefish.

The ride along the Clark’s Fork is picturesque throughout and one of our favorite roads to travel on our way to Yellowstone Park. Rock formations in the area where the Chief Joseph highway joins route 120 north of Cody features red sandstone formations that originated hundreds of thousands of years ago.

Access to the Clark’s Fork can also be from the Beartooth Highway junction with the Chief Joseph Highway. Originating south out of Red Lodge, Montana, the Beartooth Highway is a well-known route to the northeast entrance to Yellowstone National Park. The highway’s reputation is one of America’s most scenic highways climbing to 11,000 feet before descending to the Chief Joseph Highway.

We fish the Upper Section each time we travel to Yellowstone Park. On several occasions when we fished the upper section near Hunter Peak Campground, we caught all three of the trout species listed here. In general, the upper water holds trout in the 6-12 inch range, albeit I understand fish in the Canyon area range from 12-20 inches. Flies commonly used in the Clark’s Fork during the late summer months include caddis, golden stoneflies, gray drakes, PED, PMD, and terrestrials. For Ruby and me on the warm afternoon of August 12, 2004, the fish liked stimulators, with caddis pupae droppers, as we caught numerous colorful brookies, rainbow and cutthroat. On a previous trip, a good hatch of blue wing olives (BWO) was present. Beetle and hopper patterns work in late summer too.

There is relatively little fishing pressure on the Clark’s Fork as compared to other streams in Yellowstone Park. Add the Clark’s Fork to your list of western rivers to fish when you next travel to the Park. Though you probably will not catch a trophy, you will love the clear, cool water, and the peaceful surroundings that the Clark’s Fork has to offer.

Just a tip, remember when fishing the Clark’s Fork, the BWO rules.

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Health And Safety Tips When Visiting Padre Island National Seashore

In case of emergency, dial the park’s dispatch office at (361) 949-8173, extension 0. If a dispatcher is not available, hang up – then dial 911.

Loaded firearms are strictly prohibited. A Concealed Handgun License issued under the authority of the State of Texas, or another state, is not valid at the National Seashore. Unloaded weapons may be possessed only when such weapons are rendered temporarily inoperable, or are packed, cased or stored in a manner that will prevent their ready use.

You cannot drive to South Padre Island or the Rio Grande Valley along the beach. The only way to reach these destinations is to return to Corpus Christi and follow state Highway 358 (South Padre Island Drive) to state Highway 44. Take Highway 44 to Robstown. Then take U.S. Highway 77 south to the Rio Grande Valley.

Camping is available at several locations and is by permit only. Camping permits are available at no cost at the Visitor Center, Entrance Station or from a park ranger.

The 50 site Malaquite Beach campground is paved and suitable for both RV and tent camping. Restrooms, potable water and cold showers are here, as well as a dump station for RV’s. The cost is $8.00 per night or $4.00 per night with a Golden Age or Golden Access Passport. Small fires are permitted in enclosed containers at these campsites. A 30 day camping limit is in effect at Malaquite Beach. At the end of 30 days, campers must vacate their site and leave the park for a minimum of 48 hours before returning to camp.

Visitors may camp at no charge on both North Beach and South Beach. There are no facilities at these two locations. Small fires are permitted in enclosed containers; however, please remember that neither camping nor fires are permitted in the dunes, grasslands or mudflats. A 14 day camping limit is in effect at these two locations. At the end of 14 days, campers must vacate their site and leave the park for a minimum of 48 hours before returning to camp.

Camping is also available on the Laguna Madre at Bird Island Basin, a prime windsurfing location, and at Yarborough Pass, which is accessible only by 4-wheel drive vehicle. Restrooms are the only facilities available. Small fires are permitted in enclosed containers. Please note that a user fee of $5.00 per day (or $10.00 per year) is required to use Bird Island Basin. Golden Age and Golden Access Passport holders receive a 50% discount. A 14 day camping limit is also in effect at these two locations. At the end of 14 days, campers must vacate their site and leave the park for a minimum of 48 hours before returning to camp.



If you have a medical emergency during your visit, contact a park ranger immediately or go to the First Aid station at the Malaquite Beach Visitor Center. Several park employees are Emergency Medical Technicians and can provide advanced care while obtaining assistance from the Corpus Christi emergency medical system. If an employee is not immediately available, you may summon assistance for any emergency by dialing 911. Pay telephones are available at the Malaquite Beach campground and in front of the Visitor Center.

The closest hospital is Columbia Bay Area Medical Center, located at the corner of South Padre Island Drive and Rodd Field Road in Corpus Christi. This facility is 24 miles from the Visitor Center.

Beaches are Texas public highways. Only street legal and licensed vehicles may be driven in the park. All Terrain Vehicles (ATV’s) are prohibited. Driving in dunes, grasslands or mudflats is prohibited. Drive with caution and strictly observe posted speed limits. Pedestrians have the right-of-way at all times and do not always watch for approaching vehicles.

Portuguese Man-of-War are found at the park throughout the year. These attractive, blue jellyfish cause a painful sting, which is usually accompanied by redness and some swelling of the affected skin area. If stung, seek first aid. A very small percentage of those stung will experience an allergic reaction, which can cause difficulty breathing, numbness in the arms, legs or elsewhere, severe pain and/or disorientation or unconsciousness. Visitors experiencing these or other symptoms should notify a park ranger immediately and seek medical attention.

Two species of rattlesnakes live in the dunes, grasslands and mudflats. Visitors should avoid walking in these areas.

Hunting is not permitted at the park, except for the taking of waterfowl in the Laguna Madre in accordance with applicable state and federal regulations. The transportation of lawfully taken wildlife, including exotic species, through the park, is prohibited, except for waterfowl and fish.

Both a Texas state fishing license and salt water stamp are required to fish. These may be obtained at the park’s concessionaire at the Visitor Center along with complete fishing regulations. Commercial fishing is strictly prohibited. Fishing Guides using park facilities or fishing in park waters are required to possess an Incidental Business Permit, which is available at Headquarters.

Jet skis, air boats and kite surfing are prohibited. For the safety of all visitors, boaters launching from Bird Island Basin must avoid the NO BOATS buoy line west of the boat ramp near the windsurfing area.

Alcoholic beverages may be consumed at the park; however, open containers are not allowed in moving vehicles. Be safe. If you drink, don’t drive. Visitors found to be driving under the influence are prosecuted to the fullest extent of the law.

Use caution when swimming and never swim alone. Strong currents flowing parallel to the beach, tides flowing to and from the beach and sudden drop-offs in the surf can be dangerous for swimmers and waders alike. If caught in a riptide, do not panic. Swim parallel to the beach until you are free from the flow, then swim to shore. Do not attempt to swim to shore against the flow. You will not make it.

Hazardous materials periodically wash ashore. These range from 55 gallon barrels containing unknown substances to used medical products. If you come upon hazardous materials, note the location and alert a park ranger.

Possession or use of metal detectors is prohibited in the park. Items such as seashells and driftwood, washed in by the tide, may be collected as long as the items are not used for commercial purposes. All other collecting is prohibited.

Pets must be on a leash and under physical restraint at all times. Pets are not permitted at the Visitor Center area including the designated swim beach.

Gray water and sewage must be disposed of only at the dump station at the Malaquite Beach campground.

Nudity is not permitted anywhere in the park. Fireworks are prohibited.

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Self-Employment and Subsistence Hunting and Fishing in Alaska

Self-Employment
Jackie Bisbee is the coordinator of the Tanana Chiefs Conference (TCC) Vocational Rehabilitation Program in Fairbanks, Alaska. The program currently serves Athabascan Indians living in 27 Alaska villages, seven of which are on the road system, the others only accessible by commuter airplane or boat. The land encompasses approximately 37% of the state of Alaska or 235,000 square miles.

“About 25% of our cases go to self-employment,” said Bisbee. The grant under which they operate is focused on providing competitive employment, self-employment and subsistence outcomes to clients with disabilities. She and two staff members carry an equal share of the 77 cases active at this time.

Clients who seek self-employment must prepare a business plan. “We want them to think it out and write answers to questions like these: Who? What? Where? When? Why? and How?,” said Bisbee. For more formal business plans, the program contracts for the service.

If clients need training or instruction before they can start a business, the program staff will find someone to provide the training. Typically, a Memo of Understanding is drawn up between the training provider and the rehabilitation center so that both parties understand what is expected.
The medical needs of clients are met through various means, sometimes simultaneously with the pursuit of a self-employment goal. In one case, a neurological expert made visits to a man who suffered a stroke in order to assess and monitor his condition. At the same time, a computer expert was paid to visit the client weekly and teach him computer skills.

Tanana Chiefs Conference has a Minority Business Office (MBO) for further self-employment assistance. The MBO offers business loans to new entrepreneurs. “The loan office really makes clients think about their project because of the documentation they require before any loans are approved,” said Bisbee.

The vocational rehabilitation office will buy equipment and supplies to help clients start a business. No provision exists for the return of things purchased if the business fails. “It would be bad public relations for the program,” said Bisbee. “The people we buy equipment for really want to succeed.”

Subsistence
“Subsistence hunting, fishing, and trapping is a viable outcome for us, on par with self-employment” emphasizes Bisbee. Subsistence fishing and hunting is a big self-determination issue. Being able to provide food from for one’s family from the natural environment is culturally appropriate. “People depend on subsistence hunting and fishing,” said Bisbee. “It contributes to their livelihood – ensures their survival. There are no full service grocery stores in the remote villages, especially those off the road system.”

Villagers will catch and dry salmon to eat over the long winter months. Those with dog teams will feed salmon to their dogs. Those lucky enough to secure a moose will freeze the meat or make it into jerky.

The last few years have been tough for those trying to make a living off the land, either by subsistence or self-employment means. Poor salmon runs have been compounded by ever-lower prices for commercially caught salmon. “Fur prices have bottomed out so much that it is not economically feasible to trap anymore,” said Bisbee.

The Tanana Chiefs Conference Vocational Rehabilitation Center will finance the purchase of boats, motors, snowmobiles, and other tools for the people to hunt, fish, and trap. The Center has purchased glasses, dentures, hearing aides, and prostheses for people who need them to perform successfully in either the self-employment or subsistence venue. One elderly man was able to go moose hunting again after receiving a hearing aide.

Success Stories

• A client with his right arm amputated started a fishing guide service on the Kenai River. He had several years of experience working for another guide on the Kenai. “He knew exactly what he wanted to do,” said Bisbee. “Having done it before made it easier for him. He was focused.” The man received financial assistance to purchase a used boat and motor, the necessary licenses, marine training, and fishing gear. In his first year in business, he accepted the customer overflow from his former employer-guide.

• A successful banker was confronted with a stroke that suddenly changed his life and his career. He had to come to terms with his decreased cognitive ability after the stroke. After five years of learning to deal with his disability, he decided to start his own computer consulting business. He used to use a computer when he worked for the bank. The man developed a business plan and went to work. A computer systems person was hired through the vocational rehabilitation program to help train him. Six months later, he was in business for himself. One of his first requests for service was to install a new computer system for an organization near his home.

• A skilled carpenter with chronic mental illness wanted to make dog sleds the way his dad used to make them when his dad was still alive. His first step was training himself. He read books on sled-making and studied doll-sized models of sleds that his father used to make before building real ones. The client’s first product was a small model sled that he sold to a person who works for Tanana Chiefs Conference. He recently completed his first pair of snowshoes to add to his product repertoire.

• One man sells gas and oil to people using boats and seaplanes on a lake in the summertime.

• A woman uses her sewing machine to make kuspuks (summer parkas) and other types of traditional Native Alaskan clothing.

Consumers unsure of what type of business they wish to form can easily start out as a wood vendor or an expeditor. A wood vendor uses a chainsaw and ax to cut and chop firewood for sale to others. An expeditor transports equipment from one place to another via snowmobile, four-wheeler, dog sled, boat, or motor vehicle.

Jackie and her staff foster a personal relationship with the clients they serve. When in the field, Jackie and her staff make it a point to visit former clients, say “hi,” see how they are doing, and remind them that they can open up their files again if they need anything. Informal visits of this nature are part of the culture of the Athabascan Indian population served and provide feedback on how well the vocational rehabilitation program is meeting consumer needs.

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Early Spring Fishing, Are You Ready?

After a long cold winter peering down a small hole in the ice, I’ll bet you can’t wait to sit in a boat and fish your favorite lake or river system. Think of getting ready for this event as a sport in itself.

One of the things you will have to get ready is your boat. While it worked fine when you stored it for winter just a few months ago, it may need some attention now. Whether it is maintenance items or some things that just got neglected last fall, now’s the time to do it.

When I pull my Crestliner boat out of storage, the first thing I will check is the electrical connections. The new boat models now remind me of a large computer with many related components that all work together. The simplest thing such as a corroded battery terminal can have an ill effect on your whole boat. Now’s a great time to grease everything, check oil, clean everything and maybe apply a coat of wax.

Check over your trailer by checking the air pressure, the lights, and don’t forget to look over and repack the wheel bearings if needed. Wheel bearings aren’t something you want to deal with half way to the boat landing on a busy highway.

Now that your boat is all set, how about you’re fishing equipment? Winter is a great time to clean out your tackle box. Organize everything and take inventory. You will need to check all your baits, and sharpen all your hooks.

Many times this gets put off till a nice fish is lost. Fishing line is equally important to replace. Buy the best quality line. Consider it the lifeline between you and a ten-pound walleye.

Inspect your supply of jigs and any rigs you may be using. If you tie your own spinner rigs, now is a great time to do so. If you need to replace a lot of things or add a few more baits, it’s good to know what you need early. Trust me, if you spend a few dollars a week on tackle, it may go unnoticed. If you spend several hundred dollars, your spouse may come unglued or worse yet, spend that same amount on themselves for something not nearly as necessary as fishing equipment!

Your local winter sport show is a great place to visit next. You can usually find some first-rate deals on just about anything you may need for hooking the big ones. I like to buy two St. Croix rods each year. You can never have too many rods. Some of the great things about these shows are seeing all the new products coming out and having the dealers and product reps right there to talk to you about them. Treat yourself to a seminar or two given at these events also. I have picked up some excellent fishing tips over the years from attending these seminars and shows.

Well, everything is ready to go. The ice is finally gone and you can’t wait any longer to get on the open water. Plan some extra time at these icy boat landings, as there may not be any docks in yet. Being prepared will allow you to have a great experience on your first trip out. Hope to see you on the water soon.

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Tips For Maintenance and Fishing Safety

SAFETY TIPS: More on the wake discussion from Power Boating—Most states have a law that states “ all boat operators are responsible for operating their vessel in a reasonable and prudent manner with regard to other vessel traffic so as not to endanger people or property.” Even if you think you are abiding by the law it doesn’t take away the “reasonable and prudent factors.”

The worst wake speeds are between 6 and 22 mph. If you are already on plane and want to pass a boat without rocking it, you have two choices: remain on a fast plane and stay as far away as possible, or come off plane at least 100 yards from the other boat, idle past, and don’t resume speed until you are safely past the other boat.

MAINTENANCE TIPS: More on lug nuts. From Greg Hall. It pays to periodically exercise the lug nuts on your trailer. You don’t want to have a flat out there and find yourself unable to remove a frozen lug nut on a busy roadway. Even though people say you should not lubricate lug nuts I do so sparingly with Boeing T-9 spray about twice a year and let it dry before I screw the nuts back on. They have never loosened on their own and they don’t freeze up on me.

Walt Fink follows by saying he sprays his galvanized trailer wheels with a 50/50 mixture of motor oil and mineral spirits to keep them corrosion free. And from Yale---after having it pointed out to him at the Midway tournament that he was missing two lug nuts on his truck---better check your truck in addition to your trailer.

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Florida’s Top 10 Bass Lakes

Anglers consider largemouth bass the most popular sportfish in North America. The Florida Legislature designated the Florida largemouth bass, a unique subspecies that grows larger and is reputed to be a greater angling challenge than its close cousin the northern largemouth bass, as the official state freshwater fish of Florida.

Florida is proclaimed to be the “Fishing Capital of the World,” in part because of the great diversity of sport fishes and habitats found here, the numerous documented world records and their economic importance. One quick fact: the total economic impact of sportfishing in Florida ranked number one in 2001 and was $7.5 billion, according to the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service. The second highest economic impact was in California with only $4.5 billion. Freshwater anglers spent 12.2 million days fishing for bass in Florida during 2001, and each angler averaged fishing for bass more than nine days.

With largemouth bass found in almost every freshwater body in Florida and with more than 7,500 lakes available, anglers may face a tough decision about where to fish. The following list of Top 10 Bass Lakes aims to help anglers find a quality place to catch trophy bass. For more information on Florida’s freshwater fishing opportunities, fishing forecasts, tips and regulations visit the Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission’s (FWC’s) Division of Freshwater Fisheries Web site at www.floridaconservation.org/fishing/forecast/index.html.
FWC fisheries biologists have selected these Florida lakes (in no specific order) as top bass fishing destinations for 2003.

LAKE GEORGE
Lake George is one of the premier bass fishing lakes in central Florida. It is the second largest lake in the state (46,000 acres) and is 18 miles northwest of DeLand and 29 miles east of Ocala.
Lake George is one of the many natural lakes on the St. Johns River. It has extensive vegetation that provides excellent habitat for bass. Wade fishing in eelgrass, with plastic worms fished on the surface, and other topwater artificial lures is productive. Fishing with shiners is an excellent method for catching trophy bass during the spring spawning season.

Hot spots on the lake include Juniper, Salt and Silver Glen spring runs on the eastern shoreline. In winter and early spring, look for bass to congregate at the jetties on the south end of the lake. Additionally, casting deep-diving crankbaits is productive near old dock structures along the northeast shore and off Drayton Island.

There are many fish camps and landings on the lake and the St. Johns River. There is one public boat ramp with limited parking on the south end of the lake off Blue Creek Lodge Road. A fishing pier is on the east side at the end of Nine Mile Point Road.

Due to low mercury levels in this lake, the Florida Department of Health recommends following the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency’s general guidelines for fish consumption.

STICK MARSH/FARM 13 RESERVOIR
The Stick Marsh/Farm 13 Reservoir, created in 1987, is synonymous with trophy bass fishing. This 6,500-acre reservoir near Fellsmere, west of Vero Beach, became one of the hottest bass lakes in the country during the past decade. FWC biologists predict a continuation of excellent bass fishing in coming years. Electro-fishing samples, during 2001 and 2002, indicated good reproduction and growth of bass in the reservoir. The winter/spring 2001 angler survey indicated the highest total angler effort on record for largemouth bass since 1994. Anglers caught 65,943 largemouths, of which 88 percent were reportedly greater than 14 inches in total length. An estimated 451 trophy bass (over 8 pounds) were caught and released during the four-month angler survey.

Anglers can locate bass throughout the reservoir among a variety of habitats including woody stump fields, submerged canals and hydrilla. Plastic worms, spinner baits, crank baits, soft-jerked baits and topwater propeller baits are effective. Wild golden shiners are the top choice for anglers looking to catch a trophy fish.

The regulation for largemouth bass is catch and release. There is a two-lane boat ramp, paved parking lot, picnic pavilions and rest rooms. No gasoline, food, ice or other supplies or facilities are available on the site. This area is part of the St. Johns Blue Cypress Management Unit.

WEST LAKE TOHOPEKALIGA
Bordering the city of Kissimmee to the south, the 18,810-acre West Lake Tohopekaliga has long been a popular bass fishing lake for both recreational and tournament anglers. In recent years, both Bass Anglers Sportsmen Society (B.A.S.S.) and Forrest L. Wood (FLW) bass tournaments have taken place out of the Kissimmee lakefront park. Winning weights are routinely in the 18- to 25-pound range. To date, the largest bass documented from the lake weighed 17.10 pounds.

Flipping plastic worms, crayfish and lizards in shoreline vegetation is a common technique among successful anglers. Casting Carolina- or Texas-rigged plastic worms, jerkbaits, spinnerbaits or top-water propeller baits in these areas are also popular methods. Anglers fishing live golden shiners account for some of the larger bass caught from the lake.

Due to elevated levels of mercury in this lake, consumption of largemouth bass should be limited. Women of childbearing age and children under age 10 should not eat more than 8 ounces of bass over a four-week period. All others should limit consumption of bass from this lake to no more than 8 ounces a week.

For more information about the Kissimmee Chain of Lakes, visit www.floridakiss.com.

RODMAN RESERVOIR
Rodman Reservoir, east of Gainesville and south of Palatka, covers 9,500 acres of prime largemouth bass habitat. Since its creation in 1968, Rodman Reservoir has been known for trophy largemouth bass. The state’s largest bass of 2000, 15 pounds and 17 pounds, came from the reservoir during March. Much of the largemouth bass fishery’s success is due to abundant habitat in the form of stumps and aquatic vegetation and periodic drawdowns. Strong year classes of largemouth bass are produced following drawdowns, which allow a higher percentage of fish to reach trophy sizes.

Largemouth bass are most active during the cooler months. Anglers targeting trophy largemouth bass use golden shiners, either floated under a cork or free-lined. Most big bass are caught in the pool area, known as the “stump fields,” along the river channel. However, many trophy bass come from the area between Cypress Bayou and Kenwood Landing, including Orange Springs. Successful anglers use artificial baits, such as deep-diving and lipless crank baits, spinner baits and soft plastics.

Access to Rodman is available at several locations. Among the most popular are Eureka east and west off C.R. 316, Rodman Recreational Area west of S.R.19 and Orange Springs Recreational Area, Cypress Bayou (Paynes Landing) and Kenwood Landing off S.R.315.

Due to low mercury levels in this lake, the Florida Department of Health recommends following the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency’s general guidelines for fish consumption (see below).

LAKE TARPON
Lake Tarpon is a 2,500-acre lake near Tampa/St. Petersburg in Pinellas County. This lake has consistently produced high-quality bass for years. Most fish range from 12 to 16 inches long, however, quality and trophy fish are also present in good numbers. Biologists have observed anglers catching upwards of 20 fish, with an occasional 10-pounder.

Anglers are most successful flipping or pitching plastic worms along canal and bulrush edges. Offshore bass fishing is productive for anglers who fish around ledges, humps, coontail and eelgrass beds. Popular lures offshore include shad-imitating jigs, crankbaits, jerkbaits and topwater baits. Fishing wild shiners and live shad is also effective.

There are two public boat ramps within county parks. Anderson Park boat ramp is on the west shore, off U.S. 19. Chestnut Park boat ramp is on the east side of the lake, off C.R. 611. Some bank access is available in both parks. Boardwalks and piers serve as excellent fishing locations.
Due to elevated levels of mercury in this lake, consumption of largemouth bass should be limited. Women of childbearing age and children under age 10 should not eat more than 8 ounces of bass over a four-week period. All others should limit consumption of bass from this lake to no more than 8 ounces a week.

LAKE WEOHYAKAPKA
Lake Weohyakapka, commonly known as Lake Walk-in-Water, is a 7,532-acre lake, off S.R. 60 south of Orlando, east of Lake Wales. The lake has a national reputation as an outstanding spot to catch largemouth bass. Anglers frequently catch up to 25 bass a day with several ranging from 4 to 8 pounds. Weohyakapka also produces many trophy bass exceeding 10 pounds each year. Last year, Walk-in-Water anglers entered 130 bass with a qualifying weight of 8 pounds in the FWC’s Big Catch Program. A 15- to 24-inch slot limit regulation with a three-bass daily bag limit is in place to help maintain quality bass fishing. Anglers may keep three bass per day, either under or over the protected slot range, of which only one bass greater than or equal to 24 inches is allowed.

The best technique to catch trophy bass is to drift live wild shiners over hydrilla beds in the northern half of the lake. Hydrilla can pop up anywhere in the lake, so time spent looking for smaller, lesser-known pockets may be rewarding. Jerkbaits, lipless rattling crankbaits and plastic worms also produce bass in the offshore hydrilla. Topwater lures are productive, particularly chuggers or walk-the-dog type baits. Although topwater baits catch fish throughout the year, summer months offer the best action, when schools of bass roam deep-water areas. Flipping soft plastic baits in the bulrush and behind cattails in the northern and eastern areas of the lake also works well January through March. This technique is effective for smaller bass, but larger female bass spend the majority of the year in offshore hydrilla.

A public ramp is on Boat Landing Road, which runs east off of Walk-in-the-Water Road. There is little access for bank fishing.

Due to elevated levels of mercury in this lake, consumption of largemouth bass should be limited. Women of childbearing age and children under age 10 should not eat more than 8 ounces of bass over a four-week period. All others should limit consumption of bass from this lake to no more than 8 ounces a week.

LAKE ISTOKPOGA
Bass anglers who fish the Kissimmee Chain of Lakes to the north and Lake Okeechobee to the south often overlook 28,000-acre Lake Istokpoga. Situated in Highlands County between U.S. 27 and U.S. 98 south of Sebring, Istokpoga is the fifth-largest natural lake in Florida. Anglers frequently catch bass up to 8 pounds, with some between 10 and 13 pounds. An angler caught a 16-pound bass in March 1998.

Bass fishing is excellent throughout the year. From January through April, bass spawn in bulrush and other vegetation along shallow-water areas enhanced during the 2001 drawdown and around the lake’s two islands (Big Island and Bumblebee Island). Flipping soft plastics in bulrush patches and in pockets of submerged vegetation can be productive during the winter. In spring and summer, topwater lures and jerkbaits worked over the top of hydrilla and pondweed in the south half of the lake are often successful. Weedless spoons tipped with grub tails and spinnerbaits fished over pondweed south of Bumblebee Island are deadly on bass during early morning. Rattling lures (silver, gold, and “Tennessee Shad” are excellent colors) also can be effective during summer and fall as baitfish school in open water areas along the north end of the lake. A live shiner fished a few feet under a popping cork is the most reliable bait for catching trophy bass.

Lake Istokpoga has a 15- to 24-inch slot limit for bass with a three-fish daily bag limit, of which only one bass may be 24 inches or longer. All residents between 16 and 64 years of age and all non-residents are required to have a fishing license.

Due to elevated levels of mercury in this lake consumption of largemouth bass should be limited. Women of childbearing age and children under age 10 should not eat more than 8 ounces of bass over a four-week period. All others should limit consumption of bass from this lake to no more than 8 ounces a week.

EVERGLADES WATER CONSERVATION AREAS 2 AND 3
Everglades Water Conservation Areas are marshlands bordered by canals. Area 2 consists of 210 square miles of Everglades marsh connected with perimeter canals, and Area 3 covers 730 square miles of wetlands bordered by a canal system. Originally designed for flood control and water supply, the area provides some of the best bass fishing in the country.

The best fishing usually occurs in the spring when dropping water levels concentrate fish in the canals. April is the peak month with angler catch rates as high a 4.1 bass per hour in the L-67A Canal.

Most anglers fish in the canals. Anglers work edges with plastic worms and minnow imitations. Flipping into the vegetation is also a popular technique. During high water, anglers often will enter the marsh areas where bass can be found in the open slough areas. The L-67A Canal has trails off of it specifically cut to provide boat-access to marsh areas.

The L-67A and L-35B are two popular canals in the area for fishing. The L-67A Canal has access at the north end at Holiday Park, off U.S. 27, where camping and boat rentals are available.
At the south end, it is accessible at the S-333 water control structure off Tamiami Trail (S.R. 41). The L-35B Canal access is at Sawgrass Recreation Area, off of U.S. 27 and has boat rentals. Boat ramps are available at all three sites.

Mercury health advisories follow current length limits established for largemouth bass caught in the water conservation areas with recommendations made based on bass length. For largemouth bass less than 14 inches, women of childbearing age and children under age 10 should not eat more than 8 ounces of bass over a four-week period. Others should limit consumption of bass from these areas to no more than 8 ounces a week. No one should consume largemouth bass greater than 14 inches in length.

LAKE OKEECHOBEE
Lake Okeechobee is consistently one of Florida’s top producing bass lakes and is one of the best lakes in the country for bass fishing. Situated in south central Florida, the “Big O” covers 730 square miles and is easily accessible from Florida’s east and west coasts. FWC biologists are expecting a tremendous year class for this lake this year. Due to the water level fluctuations, this lake is also experiencing positive changes in vegetation.

Anglers are routinely catching big bass weighing 10 to 12 pounds. The lake record is 15 pounds, 5 ounces. Lake Okeechobee is currently averaging 500 tournaments a year. Anglers do well fishing in bulrush near Eagle Bay Island, Little Grassy Island and King’s Bar at the north end of the lake. At the south end, anglers are effective fishing in eelgrass in the South Bay area. The largest bass are caught using live golden shiners and casting into, or along edges of, vegetation. Plastic worms and spinner baits are often productive. Casting lures near vegetation often produces the largest numbers of bass.

Lake Okeechobee has a 13- to 18-inch slot limit on bass, meaning all bass between 13 and 18 inches must be released unharmed. The statewide creel limit of five black bass with only one longer than 22 inches total length applies.

Sixteen boat ramps and numerous fish camps surround the lake. For more information contact the Clewiston Chamber of Commerce at (941) 983-7979 or the Okeechobee Chamber of Commerce at (941) 763-6464.

Due to low mercury levels in this lake, the Florida Department of Health recommends following the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency’s general guidelines for fish consumption (see below).

CRESCENT LAKE
This 15,725-acre lake borders the east side of Crescent City on the Putnam/Flagler county line. Crescent Lake flows into the St. Johns River via Dunns Creek on its north end. Past electro-fishing samples for largemouth bass revealed one of the highest catch-per-unit-efforts recorded for areas on the St. Johns River. Largemouth bass up to 20 inches long were well represented in the sample, and good numbers of larger fish (over 8 pounds) were collected.

Fall/early winter fishing tends to be best near deep-water structures such as dock pilings. Good artificial baits include plastic worms, spinner baits and crank baits. Live golden shiners are always a popular bait.

Several fish camps provide access to the lake on the western and southern shorelines. A public boat ramp is near downtown Crescent City, one block east of U.S. 17, and another is on the northeast shore off S.R. 20/100. Bank access is limited to these facilities.

Due to elevated levels of mercury in this lake, consumption of largemouth bass should be limited. Women of childbearing age and children under age 10 should not eat more than 8 ounces of bass over a four-week period. All others should limit consumption of bass from this lake to no more than 8 ounces a week.

Where low mercury levels have been reported, general EPA guidelines recommend a woman who is pregnant or may become pregnant, or a nursing mother should eat not more than 8 ounces of bass in a week’s time. Children under age 10 should eat no more than 3 ounces of bass in a week’s time. All others are not advised to limit consumption of largemouth bass. Consumption recommendations should not deter anglers from enjoying recreational fishing, and many bass fishing enthusiasts voluntarily pursue the practice of catch-and-release to help conserve the resource.

SPECIAL NOTE: Students across the nation are learning about their state fishes (the Florida largemouth bass is Florida’s freshwater state fish) and displaying their artistic talent in the 2003 Wildlife Forever State-Fish Art Contest. The State-Fish Art Web site, www.statefishart.com, provides a downloadable entry form, or students can call the toll-free number, 1-877-FISH-ART, to request an entry form through the mail. The deadline for submissions is March 31. With the Wildlife Forever State-Fish Art Contest, young artists nationwide create an illustration of their state fish and a written composition on its behavior, habitats or efforts to conserve it. Entries are grouped by grade level: 4-6, 7-9, and 10-12. The winning artwork from each state is featured at the Wildlife Forever State-Fish Art Expo and displayed online for one year at www.statefishart.com and at www.FloridaFisheries.com/kids/Funstuff.html where you can find other educational games and information about freshwater fishing as well.

NOTE: For more information about these lakes, contact the following FWC biologists:
• Lake George and Crescent Lake – Joe Jenkins (386) 985-7880
• Lakes Weohyakapka and Tarpon – Tim Coughlin (863) 648-3202
• Farm 13/Stick Marsh Reservoir – Bob Eisenhauer (407) 752-3115
• Rodman Reservoir – Eric Nagid (352) 392-9617
• Lake Istokpoga – Beacham Furse (863) 462-5190
• West Lake Tohopekaliga – Marty Mann (407) 846-5300
• Everglades Water Conservation Areas 2 and 3 – Jon Fury (561) 625-5122
• Lake Okeechobee – Dan McCall (863) 462-5190

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Little Tips As You Go Fishing

MOTOR MAINTENANCE: Use Stabil & enzyme gas treatment to keep fuel lines, filters, and carburetor free of gunk. Annually—change plugs; lube the lower unit, change or clean filters. Remove prop, check for fishing line, grease shaft, if in doubt have prop checked for true, check steering cable & grease, check control cables, touch up paint. Other - replace impeller at least once every other year-more often if lower unit has encountered sand or mud input.

FISHING TIPS: Make 10 casts in a fan. If no bite change the lure, color or speed of retrieval. Continue this sequence. When you find success and land one then put over a marker buoy and continue with that presentation---you might be in a school with the right stuff!

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Tips on What Not to Forget on Your Next Camping/Fishing

I overheard a conversation at a local convenience store the other day that piqued my interest. Two forty-something females were conversing about their camping trip over the Fourth of July weekend. They both agreed the fishing was good, the mosquitoes were bad, and the children were well behaved. Still, the trip was also noteworthy for a few unpleasant surprises, namely forgotten camping gear and defective equipment.

“I only go camping once a summer, and after I’m home I pack all my stuff into plastic storage bins and keep it in my garage until the following year, ” said one of the ladies. “I don’t know what happened. I should have packed much smarter.”

Such stories aren’t uncommon; they happen to all of us at least once in our lives -- trust me on that. Before I go on a family camping trip, I grab a notebook and write out a packing list, complete with boxes for check marks. It sounds a little corny, but I’ve found it works so well that I’ve turned it into something of a ritual.

As I start to assemble my gear, first making sure everything works properly, I pack the item and check the appropriate box in my notebook. That way I know I won’t forget anything at home.

Tent -- check.
Stakes -- check.
Sleeping bag -- check.
Lantern -- check.
Flashlight -- check.
And so on.

When you are going on a camping trip far away from home, forgotten items can mean more than an inconvenience; forgotten items can lead to anightmare. Here are a few camping and fishing items that I absolutely won’t leave home without:

* Fillet knives: If you have designs on eating a fresh fish dinner, a quality set of fillet knives is mandatory. A butter knife simply won’t cut it. For my money, Gerber makes the best fillet knives on the market today. Inexpensive and always dependable, they come in multiple sizes and have special “Gator Grip” handles that make filleting fish in wet weather a snap. All of Gerber’s fillet knives come with a hard-molded sheath and a ceramic sharpener slot at the tip. That’s definitely a plus when you’re cleaning a mess of bluegills. Gerber also has other products that you’ll find helpful in any camping setting, everything from axes, saws and multi-pliers to shears, knife sharpeners and more. For more information, check
www.gerber.com.

* Ziploc bags: These quality plastic bags are lifesavers -- and in more ways than one. If I catch enough fish on a camping trip take home, I immediately put the fillets in Ziploc freezer bags and put them on ice. I also store other food I want to keep dry in them. When I’m wilderness camping, I always assume I going to run into inclement weather, so I pack my extra socks, underwear, T-shirts and other garments in Ziploc Big Bags. Trust me, they’ll stay nice and dry.

* Camera: Family camping trips are the stuff of memories, so why not preserve them by snapping off a few rolls of film? I never leave home without my trusty Nikon 35mm camera. One never knows when you’re going to catch a monster pike or walleye. For information, check www.nikon.com.

* Insect repellent: Nothing can spoil a camping trip faster than getting eaten alive by mosquitoes, black flies, gnats or sandflies. That’s why I store cans of OFF! Deep Woods everywhere -- in my Chevy truck, in my Plano tackle box, in my duffel bag. OFF! Deep Woods has 25 percent DEET, which is good for long days in the outdoors. Generally speaking, the higher the percentage of DEET, the longer the repellent works. Make sure to read the instructions before applying. Another option is to use OFF! Skintastic insect repellent, which has been specially formulated to protect against both insects and the sun.

* Snacks: Have you ever been fishing with your son or daughter and had them start ranting and raving about being hungry? Nothing can satisfy a kids’ growling stomach quite like Jack Link’s Beef Jerky, which is low in fat (97 fat free) and high in protein. Jack Link’s offers eleven flavors of jerky and several other meat products. And trust me on this, you can eat just one. For more information, check www.linksnacks.com.

* Trolling motor: There’s nothing worse than fishing without a quality trolling motor, and Minn Kota makes the best in the business -- and I’ve tried them all. I also highly recommend Minn Kota’s new CoPilot remote control system that allows wireless operation of selected trolling motor models from anywhere in the boat and without having to use cords or a foot pedal. That’s a real plus. The patented system consists of a compact remote control unit (about the size of a vehicle keyless entry remote) and a receiver unit that easily attaches to the motor. The CoPilot comes with snap-lock mounting brackets that allow the remote control unit to be mounted on any fishing rod for easy, hands-on operation. This is a revolutionary product that allows you to navigate your boat and fish simultaneously. For more information, check www.minnkota.com.

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Tips For Fishing Halibut

These tips are just my opinions from what I have seen working on boats. If you have other methods that have worked for you feel free to comment.

1) Sinkers-
I have found that using a stationary torpedo sinker works best. It keeps you bait close to the bottom where you want it.
Lots of people like the sliding sinker method either using the plastic clips that you can buy or using swivels to let you line run freely threw the sinker. The down side of this is that you do not know where you bait is. It could be swimming up on the surface and you would never know. On a crowded party boat this means only one thing TANGLES!

2) Trap rigs-
Using a trap rig will increase the numbers of halibut you catch. Any one who has fished halibut before has almost certainly had the bait shredded from just above the tail. The trap rig will help you hook those short bitters.
When making your trap rigs make sure it fits the size bait you are using. You want the front hook to be in the nose like normal. The second hook (a treble hook) you want it to be placed just behind the anal fin with not to much slack in-between. Don’t make it to short either or your bait will curl up and not be able to swim.

3) Setting the hook-
When you get bit do not be in to big of a hurry to set the hook. Many times halibut will bite it and just sit there, if you are to quick on the hook set you will rip the bait out of there mouth. One method I have found to work well is to slowly lift you rod and pull the bait from the fish. It will think it is trying to get away and when it hits again it will usually get the whole bait in its mouth. Then set the hook. (They may come back three or four times before actually eating the bait.)
This takes a little bit of practice to get the feel for when they really have a good hold of the bait. (It will feel like dead weight on the end of you line) Once you get the hang of it I think you will find it works very well.

4) Big bait-
Halibut can eat very large bait. Do not be afraid to throw out the biggest sardine you can find. You may not catch as many fish doing this but the ones you do get will be big. I have caught a 32lb halibut on a 13 inch mackerel.

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Choosing the Best Boat to Use for Walleye Fishing

You might be wondering, 'Do I need a boat to fish for walleye? Can't I just catch the fish from the shore?' Of course you can, but if you've had experience with walleye before, you know that they tend to change location depending on the season and on where their main food is located.

Some of the best walleye catches are also difficult to access from the shore. When walleye congregate in deeper waters, why miss out when you can be in on the action in the comfort of your own boat? Here are some things you might want to consider when buying or choosing a boat for walleye fishing:

Consider the frequency of your fishing trips.
If you fish a couple of times a year, you'll need a simple, no-frills boat. You might also want to invest in something cheaper but sturdy.

Consider your fishing style.
Walleye tend to make their appearance during the nighttime. If you'll be fishing mostly for this fish, consider the creature comforts and protection your boat can offer when you'll be using it .

Consider boat size
The size of the boat matters, especially if you will be fishing with a companion or two. You might also want to consider how well your boat will handle the passengers and equipment. A 14-foot boat, for example, will probably be comfortable enough for two to three anglers plus equipment. Longer ones can hold more.

Do you need a motor?
Consider the size of the lake or reservoir you will be fishing. A medium to large body of water will require that you use a boat with a motor so you can change locations easily. Imagine paddling your way around a lake as big as Lake Erie just to find your walleye.

Which bottom?
The way a fishing boat's bottom is shaped will impact how it performs in the water. A flat bottom, for example, is a good boat to use if the water isn't choppy and you don't need a lot of speed. For deeper waters, a V-bottom boat will work better because the shape cuts the water more efficiently, allowing you to move faster. If the lake you'll be fishing in is a bit large, consider a steeper V-bottom for more speed and a smoother ride.

Material and design
Boats that are perfect for walleye fishing come in a variety of layouts and styles. Simply choose which one will best fit your needs. As for materials, choose boats made of fiberglass or aluminum. They're sturdy and tough enough to see you through hundreds of walleye fishing trips.

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Adam’s Plaice Fishing Tips

Adam on catching plaice: all you need to know
As the finest fishermen of my generation, as well as a ladies man of no little repute, journalist, beer drinker, driver of fast cars, actor, artist, author, physicist, wit and bon viveur extraordinaire, I feel it my duty to pass on some tips as to how you, the little people, can catch plaice, that most noble and hard-to-fool of species. Indeed it has often been said that plaice are the most difficult to catch of all the fishes that swim the oceans blue, as well as the most rewarding.

Only an angler of dedication, skill and a noble mien may hope to succeed on a regular basis. But with my help even the common man may be able to catch the occasional specimen of pleuronectes platessa, as we biologists know them.

It was Isaac Walton himself who once said, “The plaice be the fearfullest of fishes.” He said this as he bought me a pint of foaming ale for outcatching him three fish to one for the third day running on his own boat. As I said to Dick Walker and Ivan Marks at the time “You’ve got a lot to learn from me, boys.”

And now I have graciously decided to pass on just a little of my vast and encyclopaedic knowledge on the subject of plaice fishing to you, my humble acolytes. So where shall I begin? What hope can I bring, like a St. Francis of Assisi of fishermen, to even such as you? What spark of inspiration can I pass on to

Those Adam plaice fishing tips in full…

• Bag the best place on the boat from the start.
• Refuse all requests to move, even by the merest fraction of an inch.
• Use any and all illegal narcotic attractants to lure the fish to your hook rather than anyone else’s.
• Whatever floating beads, spoons, exotic oils you use, keep it to yourself. Say you are using a size 8/0 with a wire trace and mackerel bait.
• Cut off and throw over the side anyone else’s rig that looks vaguely competent or anything like yours.

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MSC Principles and Criteria for Sustainable Fishing: All Principles

PRINCIPLE 1:
A fishery must be conducted in a manner that does not lead to over-fishing or depletion of the exploited populations and, for those populations that are depleted, the fishery must be conducted in a manner that demonstrably leads to their recovery :

Intent:
The intent of this principle is to ensure that the productive capacities of resources are maintained at high levels and are not sacrificed in favour of short term interests. Thus, exploited populations would be maintained at high levels of abundance designed to retain their productivity, provide margins of safety for error and uncertainty, and restore and retain their capacities for yields over the long term.

Criteria:

1. The fishery shall be conducted at catch levels that continually maintain the high productivity of the target population(s) and associated ecological community relative to its potential productivity.
2. Where the exploited populations are depleted, the fishery will be executed such that recovery and rebuilding is allowed to occur to a specified level consistent with the precautionary approach and the ability of the populations to produce long-term potential yields within a specified time frame.
3. Fishing is conducted in a manner that does not alter the age or genetic structure or sex composition to a degree that impairs reproductive capacity.

PRINCIPLE 2:
Fishing operations should allow for the maintenance of the structure, productivity, function and diversity of the ecosystem (including habitat and associated dependent and ecologically related species) on which the fishery depends.

Intent:
The intent of this principle is to encourage the management of fisheries from an ecosystem perspective under a system designed to assess and restrain the impacts of the fishery on the ecosystem.

Criteria:

1. The fishery is conducted in a way that maintains natural functional relationships among species and should not lead to trophic cascades or ecosystem state changes.
2. The fishery is conducted in a manner that does not threaten biological diversity at the genetic, species or population levels and avoids or minimises mortality of, or injuries to endangered, threatened or protected species.
3. Where exploited populations are depleted, the fishery will be executed such that recovery and rebuilding is allowed to occur to a specified level within specified time frames, consistent with the precautionary approach and considering the ability of the population to produce long-term potential yields.

PRINCIPLE 3:
The fishery is subject to an effective management system that respects local, national and international laws and standards and incorporates institutional and operational frameworks that require use of the resource to be responsible and sustainable.

Intent:
The intent of this principle is to ensure that there is an institutional and operational framework for implementing Principles 1 and 2, appropriate to the size and scale of the fishery.

A. Management System Criteria:

1. The fishery shall not be conducted under a controversial unilateral exemption to an international agreement.

The management system shall:

2. demonstrate clear long-term objectives consistent with MSC Principles and Criteria and contain a consultative process that is transparent and involves all interested and affected parties so as to consider all relevant information, including local knowledge. The impact of fishery management decisions on all those who depend on the fishery for their livelihoods, including, but not confined to subsistence, artisanal, and fishing-dependent communities shall be addressed as part of this process;

3. be appropriate to the cultural context, scale and intensity of the fishery – reflecting specific objectives, incorporating operational criteria, containing procedures for implementation and a process for monitoring and evaluating performance and acting on findings;

4. observe the legal and customary rights and long term interests of people dependent on fishing for food and livelihood, in a manner consistent with ecological sustainability;

5. incorporates an appropriate mechanism for the resolution of disputes arising within the system ;

6. provide economic and social incentives that contribute to sustainable fishing and shall not operate with subsidies that contribute to unsustainable fishing;

7. act in a timely and adaptive fashion on the basis of the best available information using a precautionary approach particularly when dealing with scientific uncertainty;

8. incorporate a research plan – appropriate to the scale and intensity of the fishery – that addresses the information needs of management and provides for the dissemination of research results to all interested parties in a timely fashion;

9. require that assessments of the biological status of the resource and impacts of the fishery have been and are periodically conducted;

10. specify measures and strategies that demonstrably control the degree of exploitation of the resource, including, but not limited to:

a) setting catch levels that will maintain the target population and ecological community’s high productivity relative to its potential productivity, and account for the non-target species (or size, age, sex) captured and landed in association with, or as a consequence of, fishing for target species;
b) identifying appropriate fishing methods that minimise adverse impacts on habitat, especially in critical or sensitive zones such as spawning and nursery areas;
c) providing for the recovery and rebuilding of depleted fish populations to specified levels within specified time frames;

d) mechanisms in place to limit or close fisheries when designated catch limits are reached;
e) establishing no-take zones where appropriate;

11. contains appropriate procedures for effective compliance, monitoring, control, surveillance and enforcement which ensure that established limits to exploitation are not exceeded and specifies corrective actions to be taken in the event that they are.

B. Operational Criteria

Fishing operation shall:

12. make use of fishing gear and practices designed to avoid the capture of non-target species (and non-target size, age, and/or sex of the target species); minimise mortality of this catch where it cannot be avoided, and reduce discards of what cannot be released alive;

13. implement appropriate fishing methods designed to minimise adverse impacts on habitat, especially in critical or sensitive zones such as spawning and nursery areas;

14. not use destructive fishing practices such as fishing with poisons or explosives;

15. minimise operational waste such as lost fishing gear, oil spills, on-board spoilage of catch, etc.;

16. be conducted in compliance with the fishery management system and all legal and administrative requirements; and

17. assist and co-operate with management authorities in the collection of catch, discard, and other information of importance to effective management of the resources and the fishery.

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